Ok this should be fun, as a complete newbie to electronics this is the start of my learning.
I have looked up 2N2222 & that makes sense, so this would be purely for lighting led & not have main power going through it?
I take it R3 etc are resistors with varying outputs & I would need tovary these according to the load being drawn.
Have I understood that right?
Thanks
Graham
Why not just put an LED (with appropriate limiting resistor) in parallel with each fuse? Then the LED will light if the fuse is blown and there is a load.
You should probably put a high value resistor, maybe 10k or so, in parallel with the LED. Otherwise you might get the LED glow with stupidly small leakage currents. With a 10k resistor, you need at least 0.2 mA to flow before the LED will light.
We just lost power, so I'm writing this by candle light. What an interesting juxtaposition.
Power's back up. Now I can post this.
OK, by the term "main power", I'm assuming you mean the Bike's 12VDC battery.
Think of this circuit, in all its parts, as simply an on/off switch, not unlike a light switch in your house: connected to the mains, it either interrupts, or passes power from the mains to the light (or, in this case, from the battery to the LED). A good example would be a flashlight, or torch, I think you all call it.
So, to answer your first question, the circuit IS connected to the battery.
As to the resistors, they don't really have an output as such. They AFFECT the parameters (working characteristics) of a circuit. In this case, there's no need to alter the values at all. Build the circuit as specified. I only suggested varying R3 since doing so would vary the intensity of the output of the LED.
Your last thought concerning a varying load: again, this is an on/off switch circuit: it does not control any load, other than the LED. Were the plug not connected to anything, merely putting the plug in the jack will cause the LED to turn ON. Removing the plug will cause the LED to turn OFF.
For some useful info on electrical/electronic theory, try the Theory button at the top of this page.
Having the LED on only when somthing is pluged in is alot harder and needs more parts.
Is it worth over complicating the power box for something "its nice to have"?
I've taken the liberty to re-draw your schematic below, as I understand it.
There are some component issues that need to be addressed, but for the time being I'm asking that you peruse the schematic and see if it is a fair representation of you thoughts.
Note that LED2 is always on when Accessory power is applied to the "Power Box". LED1 is on anytime ANY jack has a plug in it. If each Jack has to have its own LED, then 3 more LED switches (like the one already shown) will be needed.
Let me know what you think.
Ok sounds like fun.I see what your saying but If I explain my toys work already, hopefully you will see that this is not just about getting something to work but to actually *read hopefully* understand what componants do what & why, so I can learn about electronics but still holding an end goal so I can see something & relate it to my understanding I could read what componants do all day long but I wouldn't remember it by tomorrow, if I actually relate it to something, it will stay with me for life & in the process be able to use what I've made
Hopefully this is a nice easy starting project & gradually increasing difficulty with each one.
I hope to build a rear mounted box that cleans power etc, repair an old radio for the fun of it, the list could go on & on along with many numpty Q's along the way but hopefully that way I'll remeber what I learn
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