Advice on Weller soldering iron tips etc.

crustysolder

New Member
Hi,

I have an old Weller soldering iron which seems to have eaten the tip (as if it's melted), I suspect something may have expired as I'm sure these irons usually click when in use, but I don't recall feeling or hearing this for a while.

I don't know much about the model, just that it says WTCP50 on the front of the main unit. I normally use a chisel tip as I mainly do just regular soldering (normal components, wiring, etc) and find it supplies the best heat for this purpose, however I have no idea if it's running at the optimum temperature for this kind of work, I acquired the iron second hand.

I'm thinking I probably need to consider replacing the piece that holds the tip on as well as a new tip (the tip has a number stamped on the side - 651 - and a 6 on the end), in case something like a thermostat has failed (I don't actually know how this iron regulates temperature).

When looking at replacement tips I've seen a lot of the newer style which look like a fat biro, with what looks like a rubber grip very close to the tip, this style may help me a lot as my hands tend to shake a bit when trying to concentrate on holding the iron steady! Would I need a new setup for that or can one be fitted to this iron? Is there any other information required in order to find the correct parts I need? Thanks very much!
 
I recall in the 70's in Aerospace R&D in my 1st job, the Weller fixed tips were self-regulated either 600 'F or 650'F and the small 25 W wands were preferred by Techs using a dimmer to regulate heat.

But recently, I ordered a $13 65W iron with 6 tips and a trimmer for temperature on the wand. I was amazed that Alibaba delivered it from China in 1 week free of charge. Everything looks good to me incl. the Moly.-plated tips.

Remember that the Arrhenius Law dictates that wear out accelerates x2 every 10 'C rise and to solder wet-clean the tips before and after every job with a damp sponge wipe.
 
Remember that the Arrhenius Law dictates that wear out accelerates x2 every 10 'C rise and to solder wet-clean the tips before and after every job with a damp sponge wipe.
And remember that a short hit at high temp is much less damaging to the chip than slowly heating to melt the solder - the longer heating time allows the heat to penetrate deeper into the chip before the solder melts. Kind of like cooking - the higher the heat, the rarer the meat.
 

I've used Antex irons for decades, they come with iron plated copper tips, and the tips last years and years - you simply tin them as the bit first warms up (don't let it get to temperature and then tin it), and NEVER touch it with a file or anything abrasive. My bit at home is now over 45 years old, and the one at work has been used extensively by me for the last six years, and wasn't new then.
 
I have several Weller soldering guns I have been making my own tips for 50 years. Wire length determines how hot the tip gets. Wire diameter determines btu of the tip. Like zipzap said, if tip does not get hot quick enough to melt solder by the time solder melts you could have over heated and killed the part your soldering. I like my tip to be hot in about 8 seconds and hot enough to do the solder job in 1 second. #12 copper wire has more BTUs than #14 copper wire. I use scrap pieces of #14 Romex most of the time. Check solder tip temperature with a laser thermometer. Bend the wire in a U shape then slide the lugs over the wire then bend 1/4" of the wire end at 90°.

After new tip is in the solder gun shape the tip squeeze it to a smaller pointed shape. You can squeeze the #14 wire down until there is no radius it still works fine.

60/40 solder, which is made up of 60% tin and 40% lead, has a melting range of 361.4–375.8°F (183–188°C). It starts to melt at 361.4°F and becomes a full liquid at 375.8°F. 60/40 solder is a common alloy used for electrical soldering and other tasks because of its relatively low melting point and versatility.

 
Last edited:
All fixed. My replacement element arrived and I followed the old troubleshooting instructions to replace the busted one. The iron is back to its old self again! Probably should get a new tip now too - the old one is pretty gunked up after about 50 years of use. Thanks all for your advice.
 
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