Block heater problem

Tony Stewart said:
get an inline water heater
Click to expand...
This is a Kubota 2370 sub compact tractor, very limited space.
If I could find a 400 watt hose heater with 5/8" fittings I might get it to fit but I don't have any space to add extra fittings to reduce down to 5/8" .
 
I think that the hose heaters are designed to be inserted into the hoses that go to the cabin heater, not the ones that go to the radiator.

As your tractor probably doesn't have a cabin heater, it makes things difficult.
 
The cab has a heater but all the hoses are 5/8, I think it best to have that type of heater as close to the block as possible and near the bottom so the heat rises.
 
This isn't my tractor but it's the same.
The hose is just above the oil filter, short hose with a bend ,Kats makes one inline that would likely fit if the fittings were 5/8 but they aren't.
 

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I've had good experiences with circulating block heaters; have one now uninstalled.
Have you considered blanketing the engine area to keep out cold wind, benefitting the block heaters?
 
The tractor is in a non heated garage, I have the new block heater and I'm picking up the bridge rectifier today.
I'll test it tomorrow out of the tractor.
 
Little confusion on the bridge rectifier I ordered, shouldn't the odd terminal be marked + for DC ?
 

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Bottom left is +ve out (clearly marked), top right is -ve out (can't see it from this angle), the other two are AC in, with the bottom right clearly marked.
 
KevinW said:
Little confusion on the bridge rectifier I ordered, shouldn't the odd terminal be marked + for DC ?
Click to expand...
Yes. I would check the connections with a multimeter. Most square rectifiers have the +ve terminal as the one at a different angle to the others.

With most multimeters, a bridge rectifier will show continuity between terminals when the + is on the black lead or the - is on the red lead, or both
 
Nigel Goodwin said:
Bottom left is +ve out (clearly marked), top right is -ve out (can't see it from this angle), the other two are AC in, with the bottom right clearly marked.
Click to expand...
I agree that the part is marked clearly, but I wouldn't trust it. I checked my stock, and everything with that one-man-out pin orientation has the + out on the odd pin. This is across three different package sizes and multiple manufacturers.

ak
 
I'm getting readings all the way around but when I connect 120 volts to the terminals I lose the 120 volts on the supply line at the bridge rectifier.
 

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AnalogKid said:
I agree that the part is marked clearly, but I wouldn't trust it. I checked my stock, and everything with that one-man-out pin orientation has the + out on the odd pin. This is across three different package sizes and multiple manufacturers.

ak
Click to expand...
If in doubt check it - I've seen various configurations over the years.
 
The other interesting thing is this is the picture on the website I ordered from.
 

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The results are in, the bridge rectifier was mislabeled.
64.5 volts
113.1 watts
1.7 amps
I'm happy with this and I can let it run a little longer if need be so thanks to everyone that helped me with this.
 

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Normally adding a rectifier halves the power, fairly exactly. If the original heater runs at 400 W I would have expected much closer to 200 W.

Do you have a reading for the heater without a rectifier?
 
Can you measure with the rectifier but with the power meter before the rectifier?

I think that the power meter is not telling the correct answer because is it expecting a voltage waveform that is nearer to a sinewave. It is designed to measure the load current which can be very non-sinusoidal, but mains electricity would never be as distorted as you are getting with a rectifier in the way.
 
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