bright

[chuppyh]

some1 tell me what makes a tv real bright cant ajust down seem if u try the pic trys to get a little better + got high voltage lines cant turn flyback down bottom out

 

[dr pepper]

Your post doesnt make much sense.
Sounds like you have a short within the electrode gun assy of the picture tube.

 

[chuppyh]

Really it's on a arcade monitor its real bright got lines in it like fly back is to high do you think what you mention could be it ?

 

[Nigel Goodwin]

You need to measure the voltages on the CRT base, particularly the cathodes (usually about 150V) and the G2 (300V to 700V or so).

If G2 is high, then there's often a faulty resistor in the bottom end of the G2 adjustment pot.

 

[chuppyh]

i check the voltages it said check g2 to e2 it called for 210 v i got 206 i thought that was ok im kinda new at this tho i will insert picture
of neck board i checked the g2 well i think i did lol it read 190v

 

[chuppyh]

thanks for the help by the way i need it lol

 

[Nigel Goodwin]

The higher G2 is, the brighter the picture - so if it's that low it's not a G2 fault.

What are the voltages on the three cathodes?.

 

[chuppyh]

I check all resistors I don't think I know how to check the g3
im little scared that i would burn my fluke meter up explain how to
if you dont care buddy burnd his meter up I found a bad resistor
On neck board change it still the same funny thing is
That when I turn the fly back down quick the picture
Goes right for a second does that sound like a fb ?

 

[dr pepper]

If your fluke is a class 3 then it should be fine, assuming its a 'fluke', that name and 'avo' seem to be used like the term 'hoover' does and apply to any old meter.

The fb doesnt usually cause a bright picture, and if the cathodes and grids are about the right voltage which you said they are earlier up, unless theres a bad connection to the picture tube base then maybe the tube has an internal short, especially if the machines been upended or led down.

I remember the days of the 'bulb bopper', those things raised a few eyelids, for dealing with a short however sometimes a cap charged to ht can improve things, but its fairly involved and a bit risky.

 

[chuppyh]

i think the tube is fine i tryed another 1 same kind same results dont think if would help to deguass it these r old machines hate to spend alot
they want sale for $100 r 200 anymore ideals?

 

[KeepItSimpleStupid]

Check for shorts within the picture tube. I had the same issue once, found a short. This requires the ohmmeter and everything unpowered.

But you should see it, by probing the voltages on the CRT and then verify with an ohmmeter. (exclude the HV anode).

 

[chuppyh]

How do you check for shorts in the tube?

 

[KeepItSimpleStupid]

With the schematic of the tube in front of you, nearly every pin is unconnected to anything else except the filament pins.

Do you happen to know the tube number or have a schematic of the CRT socket area?

At here http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=25354 is one such CRT pinout. There are three Grid 1 or G1's and they are connected together and there are two filaments, they are connected together.

No other named pin should connect to anything else.

This https://www.electro-tech-online.com/custompdfs/2013/01/Repair_Crt_Shorts.pdf MIGHT become useful.

 

[chuppyh]

Check this out what I have
https://www.electro-tech-online.com...C-2000-S_20in_Color_420-5028_3rd_Printing.pdf
May have to copy an paste think it said something bout
Q901-q904 controlled voltages

 

[KeepItSimpleStupid]

Here is the link so it works. You have to wrap tags around the URL.

https://www.electro-tech-online.com...C-2000-S_20in_Color_420-5028_3rd_Printing.pdf

You have enough info by working back from the schematic on the back pages.

This has 3 filaments in series, one for each gun.