Can anyone explain the BreadBoard layout for this...

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I would suggest using something in the 'hundreds', anything over 100 ohms and under 1000 ohms

Ok this may sound stupid, but I have a pack of resistors... apparently "commonly used resistors". However, a few of them are below 100Ohms, whereas the rest all work our to be in their thousands i.e. 1000Ohms plus (1000Ohms = 1KOhm?). None lie between 100-1000Ohms. I'm going to list the colours of every one so you can see for yourself.

Green, White, Black, Red, Red
Green, Yellow, White, Black, Brown, Red
Green, Red, Brown, Gold
Brown, Black, Black, Red, Violet, Yellow
Red, Brown, Orange, Blue, Blue
Red, Violet, Red, Gold
Violet, Green, Gold
Red, Brown, Orange, Blue, Blue, Green (or pale Grey)
Yellow, Red, Black, Gold
Brown, Green, Black, Gold
Brown, Black, Red, Gold
Brown, White, Red, Gold, Brown
Brown (maybe Red), Grey, Yellow, Gold
Brown, Red, Brown, Green (or pale Grey), Blue
Yellow, Blue, Yellow, Brown, Violet, Yellow

That's all the resistors I have :roll:

Will any of those do?
 
I am not in the mood to calculate comebody's resistors. Take this prog. to help you out.
 

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  • resistorshop.rar.xls
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lol... i have to chnge it now... add 4 more LED's and make it count in hours & minutes... at the moment it's only doing 4 LED's in seconds using this code:

Code:
;-----------------------------------------------------------------------;
; BINCNT.ASM         Counts in binary on LEDs ( RB0 - RB4 )             ;
;-----------------------------------------------------------------------;
;-----------------------------------------------------------------------;
;         The next 6 lines are directions to the assembler              ;
;-----------------------------------------------------------------------;
        LIST P=16F84           ;  tells which processor is used
        INCLUDE "p16f84.inc"   ;  defines various registers etc. Look it over.
        ERRORLEVEL -224        ;  supress annoying message because of tris
        __CONFIG _PWRTE_ON & _LP_OSC & _WDT_OFF   ;  configuration switches

          ORG 0              ; start a program memory location zero

;-----------------------------------------------------------------------;
;         First we set up all bits of PORT A and B as outputs           ;
;         and set bits in the OPTION register concerning TMR0           ;
;-----------------------------------------------------------------------;
         movlw B'00000000'    ; all bits low in W
         tris PORTA           ; contents of W copied to PORT A ...
         tris PORTB           ; and PORT B
         movlw B'00000100'    ; pull-ups active
                              ; prescalar assigned to TMR0 and set 1:32
         option               ; rolls over each second
 
;-----------------------------------------------------------------------;
;                      This is the main program                         ;
;-----------------------------------------------------------------------;
         clrf PORTB           ; start with zero
loop:
         incf PORTB, f        ; add 1 to port B
         btfss INTCON, T0IF   ; wait on T0IF to be set
         goto $ -1
         bcf INTCON, T0IF     ; clear the interrupt flag
         goto loop

         end                  ; end of program

Time to code some more! :twisted: :twisted: :twisted:
 
Just make the loop go trugh more times (Watch out for overflow)

What did you do to get it working ? (im just curius)

I wod recomend you geting an newer beter PIC MCU since this one is so old they dont make them anymore and modern PICs are even cheaper.

Take a look at www.microchip.com
You can browse there products whith datasheets(PICs,dsPICs, serial EEPROMs,some analog stuf...) buy them or order free samples.

And watch out to order them in PDIP pakeges or it wont fit on your breadbord.

Welcome in the microcontroler world.

btw: Isnt your website ilegal? (Since its about coputer hacking and has links to hacking tools)

That whith the microwave was a joke. (if you did it in 1 ms it wod be completly fryed)
 
1. Did you read the **broken link removed**? If not then you went against my rules and I could take you to court (but i'm not going to!!!) LOL.

2. To get the design working, I simply re-built the whole design, but this time I put VDD to positive. It was on negative, which confused me before!. I also put on a few 1K resistors... going to buy some better ones today (i.e. ones ranging from about 25Ohms - 5K).

3. What PICs would you recommend I buy now?
 
Maybe 16F628 (most tutorials on Internet) or 16F88 (better, has A2D, better oscilator...). It depends...
 
Blueprint said:
3. What PICs would you recommend I buy now?

I would suggest you consult my PIC tutorials, the PIC's used there were chosen after considerable deliberation as a good place to start with 16F series PIC's.

But for a start, as most of my tutorials use, I would suggest the 16F628, the device that replaced the 16F84 last century!. Following on from that the 28 pin 16F876 or 40 pin 16F877 are the obvious next step, or for small devices the 8 pin 12F675.

There are a number of devices now that enhance the 16F628, such as the 16F819 and 16F88 - but their extra facilities may only confuse at first.
 
yea the F628 or the F88 (The F88 has comparitors and ADC and you will have horible problmes if you use the PORTA as digital and have the analog enabled)

Wen making robots PWM is a must to have feture.


If you go in making somting complex you may want to use some high level progaming languages.MikroBasic and mikroC is realy easy to learn (If you alredy know basic-visual basic or C-C++...Its a even more easy)

In mikroBasic your progoram wod be:
-------------------------------------------------
dim i as byte
main:
TIRSB = &11111111
PORTB = 0

count:
If i = %00001111 then
i = 0
end.
i = i + 1
PORTB = i
Delay_ms(1000)
goto count

end
-------------------------------------------------
 
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