car electric window motor

"Pinch" is a different function.

UP: Detect pinch and go down, say an inch away from the pinch.

DOWN: There should be nothing to pinch (stuff in the way). If the track is bad, then the polyswitch works. The motor stopping going down seems pretty acceptable.

If this was a motorized spoiler:

UP: (Say ice on spoiler). Spoiler is fully retracted. Try up, if pinch, then go full down.

Down: (pinch detected), Spoiler is fully up. Spoiler should go back up.

UP also gets disabled at high speeds. Up should probably be staged speed wise.

A pocket door might need a different algorithm. Search for: Automatic Door Controls SIDOOR

Thank you all for your suggestions.
You did "open" my view on the subject.

Of course I'll let you know when I'll decide and test my final approach.

That doesn't, in any way, mean that am not "open" to any new ideas

Here I am again with more questions
As I told you the polyswitches is a new field for me.
I am looking at eshops and ebay and get descriptions like "10A ressetable fuse 16V ptc polyswitch 12v z360"
What's this story with 2 voltages (12 & 16V)? Although in the specs has only the 16v what could be the reference to 12v?
And if there is a choice between the 2, which I should choose for the automotive use? The 12 or, given that the voltage in a car can go far beyond 12, it is safer to go for the 16V?

You need to look at the datasheets: https://www.littelfuse.com/~/media/...e_ptc_radial_leaded_catalog_datasheet.pdf.pdf

Looks like 16 V is suitable for automotive. You might wish to get an automotive qualified switch.

You have steady state current, ambient temperature and time to trip parameters to worry about.

update

Yesterday I got my second valeo electric window motor for the other door (I thought of changing them both) and now am waiting for some polyswitches that I ordered to arrive and start playing (aka "testing" )
Of course I will keep you informed of the progress, just in case somebody comes into similar situation.