CD/Tuner/Aux device takes one week to power back on

Hello everyone this is my first post!
I have always wished that I could master electronics, so recently I've been taking apart old devices and salvaging cool looking components (inductors, heat sinks, and magnets, hoping to learn or even build cool sh!t.

My dilemma:
I have this Sharper Image AC powered device that has 3CD ports, an auxiliary input, and a FM tuner. Anytime that the breaker gets tripped on the same outlet as this device, the entire device turns off. After I switch the breaker back on the power light on the device is red (which is normal when the device is powered off) but when I press the power switch the device does NOT turn on (remains red). However if I wait approximately 1 week to power up the device it will power up.

This has now happened 4 times in the last 2 months and I want to know what I can do to expedite using the device (1 hour is too long, let alone 1 week).
The device says there are no serviceable components inside (LIARS because I found a fuse). The fuse is NOT blown (that would be too easy).

I am not at all confident BUT I think that there must be some electric charge stored in the capacitors of this device which is preventing it from turning on, hence after one week the electricity is fully discharged and the device powers on. I currently have the device taken apart but I don't want to discharge the capacitors, and I don't know where I should discharge the capacitors (at the solder points I assume).

The device was built in 2000 and I only use it because of the AUX input. It says to use 4ohm speakers but I have two 8 ohm speakers from an 1998 Aiwa mini-sound system.

I am glad to provide any other info needed.

Welcome to ETO!
Without a schematic it will be difficult, and may not be possible, to track down the fault. What test gear (DMM, scope) do you have available?
Check all electrolytic capacitors for any signs of bulging, discolouration or liquid leakage.

A) photo of the inside
B) Anything that looks like a battery?

There could be a supercapacitor in it for memory backup that holds the memory for about a week. I would suggest putting a mains filter in the power lead. (One with capacitors, inductors and MOVs)

Les.

This is an image of what the device looks like inside and out. I don't have any test gear other than a Harbor Freight volt meter (freebie).

I saw this slight burning near the power board and I think this might be causing the problem.

Hawthorne said:

I saw this slight burning near the power board and I think this might be causing the problem.

Click to expand...

That's not a "slight burning", that's significant burning.
I suspect the green component (capacitor?) may be bad.

That burnt component could also be a transient suppressor (MOV?). Whatever, it's likely dead and needs replacing, or at least removing to make further checks. The next question is "What caused it to fail?"

My guess is that the age of this device (16 years) or perhaps too many tripped breakers. The soonest I will turn it on is Saturday 3/5. I have a soldering iron to remove it but I fear that will be the end (of the device) if I do that. I thought you guys might be able to tell what the component was, so it might be a supercapacitor, or transient supressor.

Hawthorne said:

My guess is that the age of this device (16 years) or perhaps too many tripped breakers. The soonest I will turn it on is Saturday 3/5. I have a soldering iron to remove it but I fear that will be the end (of the device) if I do that. I thought you guys might be able to tell what the component was, so it might be a supercapacitor, or transient supressor.

Click to expand...

Can you post a picture of any characters on the device?

I don't think it will be a supercapacitor. It looks to be in the power supply area so I think it will be a capacitor or MOV. I SUSPECT the two yellow wires are the AC input to the board. It looks like the component could be straight across the input but you would need to look at the etch side to check. IF this is the case then I think it is more likely to be a capacitor as MOVs are normally on the output side of the fuse. (As they tend to fail short circuit after a large transient.) The markings on the component and the component number on the board would help to identify it. If there is a supercapacitor used supply a cmos memory chip it will be near to the main controller chip.

Les.

Unfortunately any of the markings that were on the burnt piece are no longer eligible. Now I suppose I would definitely need a schematic for this device if I am to attempt to fix it. Although the burnt piece is like a green Chicklet there are probably 3-5 identical pieces with different tolerances.

If you have several similarly-coloured and similarly-shaped components then the burnt one is more likely to be a capacitor than a transient suppressor (MOV).