Look up the data sheet on each part. (each type) Example: many ICs have a storage temperature of 150C max. You may have problems with large capacitors.
Low cost PCBs may fall apart with the steam. There are flex PCBs that might do better with steam. Don't use the lowest cost PCBs.
I think you will have a day or two of looking at data sheets.
Does it have to be an autoclave? I've got a germicidal UV tube which when turned on produces a lot of ozone. Does anyone know how well electronics puts up with ozone?
Does it have to be an autoclave? I've got a germicidal UV tube which when turned on produces a lot of ozone. Does anyone know how well electronics puts up with ozone?
if the board is small enough, you could make a potted module (plastic case, the board immersed in a filler such as non-corrosive RTV, and the module is sealed with a thick layer of epoxy. such modules are very resistant to harsh environments. another option is to conformal coat the board, but there's a lot of convoluted surface area where bacteria, etc... could hide.
another way to disinfect electronics, that's not going to cause corrosion or thermally stress the components would be immersion in 99% alcohol. the only thing to avoid would be soaking anything using heat sink grease, or RF boards with coils held in place with beeswax.
i used to make ozone generators (the high voltage kind). it takes a while of constant exposure to begin visibly oxidizing tinned wire. my corona wires were tinned stranded wire with the strands fanned out. if the only exposure is a few minutes under a UV lamp once in a while, it won't do much.