If its only a couple of components its sometimes easier just to draw the circuit directly onto the PCB with an etch resist pen, or even easier use veroboard unless size is of utmost importance?
You would be better posting the schematic then I am certain that the advice you got would be top quality, its hard to make a comment without seeing what the circuit is. Some of the guys on here can read schematics as easily as most people can read a newspaper!
For 1 or 2 sided circuits this method looks sweet. I haven't tried this yet but I just order a kit from Digikey. I'll let you know what I think after I try it.
I and others here use it and it works very well. The starch coated paper sheds the toner when wet. What ends up on the PCB is what the printer printed. Great stuff. I use a strip of blue painters tape along the top of the transfer paper to attach it to a previously printed image. Saves transfer paper.
3v0
EDIT: Pulsar also has a system for creating backer-less transfers using color or non colored laser printers. We just received ours but have not had time or cause to use it just yet.
For 1 or 2 sided circuits this method looks sweet. I haven't tried this yet but I just order a kit from Digikey. I'll let you know what I think after I try it.
for a simple circuit u can try making tracks on a bare PCB with Nail Paint using a small
brush. Keep it in Sun for an hour. Now wash the PCB in Ferric Chloride solution. the
unpainted and unwanted Copper will remove from the PCB. Now Drill holles, as required
according to the position of components to be mounted. U can try, it is very simple.
I used to follow much the same procedure. It can work but:
The Pulsar starched paper is much easier to use. There is no doubt about it releasing the toner. When the paper is wet the starch turns to goo and there is nothing for the toner to stick to. No rubbing, ever!
Ferric Chloride stinks, in time it corrodes most everything, and it is bad for your lungs. I suggest Sodium Persulfate which is a clear non-stinky liquid that turn translucent blue when it is used up. To cover my rear I suggest you read the material safety sheet.
Sort of like trading in an old car that runs some/most of the time for a dependable new one.