fluke 23 III

[mybuickskill6979]

what do you guys think of this DMM? are they good? i found one at a reasonable price! i got to get rid of my RS model i can't find a fuse to replace the ones i burned so time for a new!! or is there others with a reasonable price thats better?

 

[fingaz]

By all accounts, FLUKE seem to be a reliable meter. I don't use one myself, but I've never heard any bad reports about them. And if it's reasonably priced, that's got to be a plus.

To be honest, I think you're reasonably safe to buy any WELL KNOWN, BRANDED meter. just stay well clear of unknown, made in Hong Kong meters.

 

[mybuickskill6979]

yeah i found a bunch of those on ebay lol. i'm gonna run around to the second hand stores around here see if i can find a better deal i doubt it but its worth a shot.

if not its between these two
**broken link removed**
and this one
**broken link removed**

it doesn't say anything about range or specifics on the second one so its kind of iffy!!

 

[fingaz]

try looking here, this is the spec sheet for the fluke 23 III
https://www.tequipment.net/FlukeDigital23MultimeterSP.html

 

[ljcox]

what do you guys think of this DMM? are they good? i found one at a reasonable price! i got to get rid of my RS model i can't find a fuse to replace the ones i burned so time for a new!! or is there others with a reasonable price thats better?

Chris,
You don't have to get rid of your old one, the fuse is only used for the current ranges. So it will still read voltage and resistance.

Besides, you may be able to buy the right fuse one day.

 

[mybuickskill6979]

true i guess i can use it still use the "fused" part of voltage and the non fused for the amperage tests. will check it. if you can't tell already i'm sort of a paranoid glass half empty sort of dude

 

[audioguru]

I have used my Fluke 79III for about 12 years and it still looks new (but its rubber case is dirty) and works perfectly.

 

[ljcox]

true i guess i can use it still use the "fused" part of voltage and the non fused for the amperage tests. will check it. if you can't tell already i'm sort of a paranoid glass half empty sort of dude

I think you have it the wrong way around.

The current ranges (except possibly the highest, eg. 10 Amp) are fused.

A fuse is not necessary for the voltage and resistance ranges since these have a high resistance and should not (if the meter is designed properly) be damaged by overvoltage.

I'm the optimistic glass half full type.

 

[mybuickskill6979]

on this one the fuse is the 500ma the 10+ A side has no fuse. the fused side is also the voltage and ohmage testing side.

i have it working now i wrapped the fuse in foil and put it in there. was testing the out put on my stereo in my room. might make a small amp a couple circuits down the line. to drive the car sub. and then one to put to the 160w(max) kenwoods i have hooked up to it lol. all 8ohm speakers so it's looking good.

 

[ljcox]

on this one the fuse is the 500ma the 10+ A side has no fuse. the fused side is also the voltage and ohmage testing side.

That's odd, mine have the fuse only in the low current ranges. So don't use it on the low current ranges.

If you can find a 500 mA fuse that is bigger than your 500 mA fuse, you could unsolder the fuse wire and solder it into the 500 mA fuse.

and then one to put to the 160w(max) kenwoods i have hooked up to it

Are you planning to go deaf? Noise at > 80 dBA can damage hearing.

 

[mybuickskill6979]

lol. nah my mom is going deaf i just want her to still be able to hear it lol. nah but i love music, well as my mom calls it, S***!! lol. but if i could get that extra BUMP that would be nice. i have a cross over with a potentiometer that my friend hooked up to be able to control the highs. i hate highs lol mids and bass are my thing

 

[Brevor]

Fluke Meter

If you go with Ebay get the fluke 23, dont get the other one that model is for electricians not electronics work. Flukes are good last week I connected mine
across a 480 V. power buss while it was still set to the resistance function
it didn't even complain.

 

[mybuickskill6979]

Sweet. i'm gonna keep the RS model for right now and once i get my taxes a fluke will be in order

 

[Dean Huster]

A fuse is not necessary for the voltage and resistance ranges since these have a high resistance and should not (if the meter is designed properly) be damaged by overvoltage.

On a Fluke, the fuse is not there to protect the meter but to protect the operator. In fact, there are two fuses in series, usually one rated for a lower current at 250v and another for a higher current at 600v. This fuse arrangement and other design features in the meter is what rates if for a CAT III or CAT IV high-energy designation. The fuses are usually in series with the +V/ohms probe connector so that if blown while trying to measure the number of ohms on a live 240 volt circuit, all function will be "silenced" until the fuse is replaced.

Foil around a fuse? You play with hand grenades, too?

Fluke handheld DMMs are virtually bulletproof. About the only thing that can damage them is being run over by a tractor or fork lift. In their protective rubber cases, they can take some pretty amazing falls onto concrete. They are usually some of the more expensive meters on the market, but that should never be an issue in this particular case. Buying a Fluke will provide you with a one-time purchase of a high-quality, safe, reliable and accurate meter.

There are some "electricians" vs. "electronics technician" Flukes out there. One of the electrician traits is that they have a much lower input impedance for AC voltage to reduce or eliminate "ghost voltages", which make them much less desirable for general electronics use.

Dean

 

[ljcox]

On a Fluke, the fuse is not there to protect the meter but to protect the operator. In fact, there are two fuses in series, usually one rated for a lower current at 250v and another for a higher current at 600v. This fuse arrangement and other design features in the meter is what rates if for a CAT III or CAT IV high-energy designation. The fuses are usually in series with the +V/ohms probe connector so that if blown while trying to measure the number of ohms on a live 240 volt circuit, all function will be "silenced" until the fuse is replaced.
Dean

Dean,
That is interesting, I had not thought of the personal safety aspect.

The meters I have only have a fuse in the low current ranges and you have to move the red probe from the Volts/Ohms socket to the Current socket to measure current. But I don't have a Fluke.

 

[Dean Huster]

Len, it seems silly to have two fuses in series. That's what I thought 'way back when they started doing that. But if you have the meter set for measuring resistance and you connect it across a high-energy circuit (e.g., the incoming 460v 3-phase to a motor controller), the little fuse will blow. However, because it's voltage is exceeded and the fuse element is little more than conductive, vaporized metal, it will continue to conduct a high current. If that's all the fusing the meter has (i.e., it's not rated for CAT I, II, III or IV), the meter will likely explode in your hands, taking your face along with it as a souvenier. With the 600-volt fuse in series in that condition, it will then blow safely, protecting the world from total destruction.

Usually its just the little inexpensive fuse that blows because you're usually not working in a high-energy circuit.

Dean

 

[ljcox]

Thanks Dean,
I have not done much high voltage work.

Most of my work has been on 50 V or lower.

It sounds like the Fluke meter is the one to use for HV.

 

[audioguru]

A Fluke meter is the one to use for just about everything!

 

[mybuickskill6979]

dude fluke sounds like the bughatti of DMM! i'm a have to get one!!