Garage Door Controller

I'll get to the question and then fill in the details.

Any idea which terminals on my existing garage door PCB I can trigger to remotely open and close?

I have an ANSA door control, which has a physical open/close button and a RF receiver for a keyfob. I've just wired a small internet wireless switch that I've powered with a 5v transformer. i can control the switch remotely and send a variable time length of current to the output side of the switch, which I assume is what the physical button on the board and the RF receiver does on press or receipt of a signal. My question is, which of the many terminals do I put the current to, to open/close the door? The PCB has a 'Door Controls' segment that consists of "IMP, COM, STP, AL1 & AL2". There are no current connections into these terminals, save for COM & STP which are bridged by steel wire. There is also a 'Safety' terminal section as the door has light sensors, and that has a single connection into OV, two connections into TEST and two connections into 24V.

Sorry if I've asked the wrong questions and any help gratefully received.

Have you consulted the instructions?, if you've lost them you should be able to download a copy - this should explain how you connect extra facilities.

However, I'm a little apprehensive about "send a variable time length of current to the output side of the switch" and "which of the many terminals do I put the current to". This 'may' just be a misunderstanding of the correct terminology?, but usually all that is required is a pair of relay contacts to operate the controller, and not any current.

Posting details of your 'internet switch' might help clear things up.

Firstly Nigel, thanks for taking the time to respond.

I have an online version of the manual, but it's not much use, this is about the only connection diagram in the manual:



It may be my poor description, or my lack of electronics understanding, but I had assumed that a short (~0.5 second) low voltage output was the trigger to open and close the motor, which I can generate from my internet switch, if that's incorrect I guess I'll scrap that idea. My switch is:
Sonoff SV Safe Voltage WiFi Wireless Switch Smart Home Module Support Secondary Development

SONOFF SV Safe Voltage WiFi Wireless Switch Smart Home Module Support Secondary Development

Remote ON/OFF–Turn electrical devices on/off from anywhere LAN Control –Turn on/off the device even when WiFi has no Internet access Low Power Supply–5-24V DC low voltage input App Support –Free iO…

www.itead.cc

If you have hard wired push button switch inside the garage then just drive the coil of a small relay with the output signal from your remote internet switch and connect the relay contacts in parallel with the push button. I think if you read the manual you will find the inside push button is wired between the "IMP" and "COM" terminals.

Edit, I think the output of your Sonoff SV switch is just a set of contacts. If so just connect them between the "IMP" and "COM" terminals.

Les.

RESULT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

A $6 internet switch; inching set to 0.5 seconds; 5v output; direct plumbed into IMP and COM with no other components and now my garage door works remotely and off Alexa - thank you chaps!

I've been studying the page for the internet switch, how did you configure it?.

As I read it you should set it to Isolated Mode, and fit a short across the 'input' pins. - this makes the output a simple relay contact.

If you're using it in Default Mode, then you switching you 5V PSU directly to the input of the door control, which is expecting it to be a simple switch, not a 5V supply. This could potentially damage it?.

This was my worry in the first place, hence my questions.

Nigel. I left the switch in default mode, which appears to operate the door well by allowing my input current to be switched to output whenever the switch is thrown. Although I don't fully understand the rationale, given your advice that 5v isn't the expected output and may damage my control unit, I've just ordered a new switch and connectors and I shall follow the cannibalization approach to set the new switch to isolated mode and then retry it. Thanks once again for taking the time on this.

He's ok the
Sonoff SV can handle switching to ground
The relay let's you switch line voltage

be80be said:

He's ok the
Sonoff SV can handle switching to ground
The relay let's you switch line voltage

Click to expand...

Have you read the instructions?, the default setting for the relay appears to switch the power supply ON and OFF to the output, where he really needs just a pair of bare contacts (third diagram in the instructions).

Here is a link to some useful on the Sonoff SV. https://www.itead.cc/wiki/Sonoff_SV It show what is required to convert the output to just a set of relay contacts and also includes a link to the schematic. All that is required is to remove two resistors (Zero ohm links) and and a jumper link. There is even a youtube to show how to do it https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=osKyMUXwKpo (I did initially wonder why jumpers were not used instead of zero ohm resistors but realised that jumperes would not be suitable for the rated output current.)

Les.

Les Jones said:

Here is a link to some useful on the Sonoff SV. https://www.itead.cc/wiki/Sonoff_SV It show what is required to convert the output to just a set of relay contacts and also includes a link to the schematic. All that is required is to remove two resistors (Zero ohm links) and and a jumper link. There is even a youtube to show how to do it https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=osKyMUXwKpo (I did initially wonder why jumpers were not used instead of zero ohm resistors but realised that jumperes would not be suitable for the rated output current.)

Les.

Click to expand...

That's the page I referred to, I used the 'Solder Instructions' which show you how to configure it.

From what I read it would probably work as
The poster said it did.
I would myself use the relay as dry switch.
But most opener's switch to ground witch
Is why its worked as he hooked it up.

The opener is looking for the door switch to close that brings the controller input to ground
So i don't see it being a problem Vin will be a little higher 12 volts for .5 seconds I say the supply would block that.
But the spec tells you it can handle 5 to 24 volts don't think 12 for haft a second will hurt anything.

be80be said:

From what I read it would probably work as
The poster said it did.
I would myself use the relay as dry switch.
But most opener's switch to ground witch
Is why its worked as he hooked it up.

The opener is looking for the door switch to close that brings the controller input to ground
So i don't see it being a problem Vin will be a little higher 12 volts for .5 seconds I say the supply would block that.
But the spec tells you it can handle 5 to 24 volts don't think 12 for haft a second will hurt anything.

Click to expand...

Do you have the internal circuit of the garage door opener?, so how do you know that sticking voltage up it, where it's not supposed to be, isn't going to damage it. The remote is designed specifically to be configurable to do it properly, which we all KNOW will be perfectly safe, so why not just do it properly?.

Nope but you know what I think I said use the relay as dry switch in post 12
Just cause i said how it was working dont mean I said do it that way.

But i do work on this stuff for over 38 years
I put in openers with loops
Photo eyes wired wireless you name it.

Oh I dont think 5 volts will increase 12 do you
And most Home openers are 12 volt on control side the photo eyes work at 12 the button has 12 on it till pressed