Garage Parking Assistant!!!!!!!!=)

will you please check on my circuit?!?!? its the circuit that iv chosen for my electronics design project! its from a water level indicator ckt and iv changed its application and revised it as a parking assistant!!!!!!=) the LEDs lights up as the car gets near the device. 20, 10, 6 cm respectively as it detects the car turning On the light until all are lit up! would the circuit work??? could you please give me some advices??? thanx a lot!!!!!!!=)

That pile of parts won't detect anything without a circuit built from a schematic. Please post its schematic.
Even if you used a mirror or painted the wall white, I think its maximum of only 50cm is too close already. You could get more range with an array of infrared LEDs, and better resolution with an indicator made with a 10-LED LM3915.

urzalight said:

will you please check on my circuit?!?!? its the circuit that iv chosen for my electronics design project! its from a water level indicator ckt and iv changed its application and revised it as a parking assistant!!!!!!=) the LEDs lights up as the car gets near the device. 20, 10, 6 cm respectively as it detects the car turning On the light until all are lit up! would the circuit work??? could you please give me some advices??? thanx a lot!!!!!!!=)

Click to expand...

I think you may have a problem because using D2 alone, you cannot define the gain of IC2a.

A better way would be to use an IR beam across the garage.

My own solution to parking is strictly non-electrical - a piece of 2 x 2 nailed to a piece of 3 ply. I drive onto the 3 ply until the wheel is stopped by the 2 x 2!

And for another non electronic solution: a piece of string attached to the ceiling with a soft object ( tennis ball?) dangling on the end. When it hits the windscreen you are parked at the right spot.
I think anything electronic is a recipe for dings! :lol:
The KISS principle is best in cases like that :wink:
Klaus

And for another non electronic solution: a piece of string attached to the ceiling with a soft object ( tennis ball?) dangling on the end. When it hits the windscreen you are parked at the right spot.
I think anything electronic is a recipe for dings! :lol:
The KISS principle is best in cases like that :wink:
Klaus

Those high-tech distance finders are cool to use. It's fun to see how close you can, oops, get.
Besides, maybe the wall moves??? It just did! :lol:

I saw a cool feature on a concept car. It had something that would monitor if there was a car in your blind spots when you were driving on the highway. There were a couple LED's on the door panel that would light up if there was an object in the way.

I have a large washer hanging from the ceiling for my indicator. I couldnt find a tennis ball

That project is trying to pump about 300mA through the IR LED! If its current-limiting resistor (?) can handle the power, which one will smoke first, the 555 or the IR LED? I know, it has about a 10% duty-cycle. It has a fairly low frequency, think about the thermal stress, hot, cool, hot etc.

As for its IR sensor being wired as photo-generating, I think it would be much more sensitive if it was wired as being photo-conductive (photo-leaky?) with a high-value bias resistor. Then the opamp could also be biased up into a good operating region. You could cap-couple the IR sensor into the opamp so ambient light doesn't saturate the opamp.

I wonder what the relay is for. When it activates a siren or something maybe you should look for damage!

thnx!!!!

pls...if i need a non-electrical device, i could've built it myself.....but thnx anyway for the comments!!!!!

could anyone PLEASE suggest a better circuit for this??? or maybe replacements!!?? I REALLY APPRECIATE ALL YOUR TIME!!!!! THNX A LOT!!!!=)

what a hassle that circuit is, just use an osciallator to modulate the IR like in the circuit and just use a IR reciever like those used in televisions and such, has all the filters, integrators and amplifiers built in and only cost about $1.50 US. Just make sure to modulate the light to the same frequency the reciever is tuned at...

This link gives a better receiver

https://circuitos.tripod.cl/schem/r53.gif

I looked at Vishay IR receiver modules and they have automatic-gain-contol and automatic-threshold-control to receive data reliably. Therefore they cannot be used to detect signal strength changes caused by distance.

The general purpose IR receiver circuit recently posted is missing a negative battery for the IC's pin 4.
Also, the very low resistance of R2 (2.2K) seriously loads-down the high impedance of the phototransistor and its load, R1 (100K), reducing sensitivity. The very low resistance of R2 in combination with C1 also causes its low frequency response to roll-off below 7.2KHz, further reducing its sensitivity to our low frequency transmitter.

A second battery can be avoided if pin 4 was grounded and if the opamp was biased to mid-supply.
The loading effect of R2 and the low frequency roll-off of R2/C1 can be eliminated if pin 3 was biased with a couple of 470K resistors and used as the input from the phototransistor, with a 1nF coupling cap. Then R2 should be connected to ground through a 0.1uF cap.
With these modifications, its gain will probably be too high and can be reduced by reducing the value of its feedback resistor, R3. The IR LED current in the transmitter can be reduced to a safe amount too.
Then you'll have a better receiver that can drive a 10-LED LM3915 for high resolution, much better range and a reliable transmitter. :lol:

shematic of garage assistant!!!!!!!!!!!!

why would the circuit wont work effectively??????? can i ask for some assistance!??!?!?!!?!?! :?

Hi URZ,
Just build it and watch the 555 or IR LED in its transmitter smoke because the value of R3 is too low.
Or get it working but crash into the wall because its range is too short and it doesn't have enough distance indicators.
Or when you get home on a hot day, you open the garage door and the receiver indicates a short distance all the time because it is picking up heat (infra-red isn't light energy, it's radiated heat energy).
We have already discussed how to make it work better.

Why use a transistor here?

for the simplest detector, hook up an LED, a CDS cell and a battery together in a loop (or in series).

The more covered the LCD, the dimmer the light.

Now experiment.

schematic!!!

here's the schematic!! ive only started again with this project bcoz iv only recently finished my other design subjects....(there not really totally finished!! )

...sory for my stupidity but...could i still ask for help in this design....i wonder what parts am i going to change???? Thank you very much for your time!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

audioguru said:

Hi URZ,
Just build it and watch the 555 or IR LED in its transmitter smoke because the value of R3 is too low.
Or get it working but crash into the wall because its range is too short and it doesn't have enough distance indicators.
Or when you get home on a hot day, you open the garage door and the receiver indicates a short distance all the time because it is picking up heat (infra-red isn't light energy, it's radiated heat energy).
We have already discussed how to make it work better.

Click to expand...

URZ, we have made suggestions. What do you want to do?