Graphic overlays for project boxes

Apologies if this topic has been covered before, but I'm making more and more portable handheld units (RF, programmers, test gear) using hammond enclosures and they really need some form of overlay with text/graphics and perhaps instructions. Whilst it doesn't have to be 'like silkscreen' it would be nice to give it a professional, rugged touch.

So rather than just stright to getting custom panels made up, I thought I would experiment with some DIY solutions, and came here to ask what others do. So far I have a few idea's:

1. Print design on printer paper (inkjet or laser), mount with 3M photo mount, cover with sticky back plastic, or thin (0.5mm) clear polycarbonate which is glue AND screwed into the case.

2. Print the design on printer paper (inkjet, or laser), laminate with standard laminating pounches, and glue onto front.

3. same as above two, but just spray with acrylic clearcoat.

4. Print in reverse of OHP film (I have both films for laser, and inkjet) then glue print-side-down. For black enclosures, I would need to put white paper under this, or perhaps use white spraypaint first.

The problems I can forsee are:

- Overlay eventually peeling off.
- Black not being 'true black', and inability to print white - means I would have to use a white paper backing.
- If the top fim (plastic, vinyl, OHP, laminating pouch) is too shiny, might not give a good anti-glare finish
- It'll look poo.

There is also the problem of LCD's. If I cut out a large (60x40mm) square from the front panel, assuming the display is flush against the sirface of the panel, I would need a semi-rigid plastic over this to protect it - and that would require a nice jet-black border around it, so only the 'display area' of the LCD is visible. I fear that even the toner from my laser printer won't be black enough, and inkjet rarely is. This leaves psray paint.

Any idea for semi-professional projects? For my own I just print something off and glue it on, then use sticky-backed-plastic. I'm not talking large panels here, most are roughly 110mm x 60mm, but given the accuracy/detail of inkjets, seems like I could make some pretty nice overlays. The only trouble being finding an adhesive which doesn't smudge the ink, and a way to cover it so it lasts (clear plastic, or clear-coat acrylic).

Cheers!

I have a great trick for this: reverse-print on Shrinky-Dink film and bake it. Comes out like a sheet of plexiglass, with improved color saturation and resolution.

Hi,

I must say I had never heard of 'Shrinky-Dinks' before you mentioned it. A quick wiki revealed its almost ideal Apparently it shrinks after baking, which could make life difficult where panel cut-outs are required, or scales, but for reliable labels, I might just give it a go!

Shrinky-Dink? You are sure you are discussing labels, not cold showers? E

canadaelk said:

Shrinky-Dink? You are sure you are discussing labels, not cold showers? E

Click to expand...

The juvenile replies are why I often don't bother to explain how I made the professional looking and rugged graphic overlays I am so often complemented on.

Blueteeth said:

Apparently it shrinks after baking, which could make life difficult where panel cut-outs are required

Click to expand...

No, it actually makes them easier than ever - you can cut them out with an xacto knife ahead of time, working on a larger scale, instead of cutting them out later with a saw at 1:1 scale. This is particularly helpful with "D" shapes and all those other odd panel mounts for connectors and things.

You have to do a test piece first and measure how much it shrinks. After that, printing correct size dial scales and the rest are straightforward. I use a thin sheet of glass on top while baking to help hold it flat.

I just had to look up what the plastic was. Apparently, it is common polystyrene. Here is a link using food containers: https://www.curbly.com/users/chrisjob/posts/2252-diy-shrinky-dinks

One might also consider trying the jewel cases for CD's.

John

It seems any clear plastic with a 6 in the recycle symbol will work.

Mike.

Fine suggestions, but I would recommend dropping by a toy store and picking up the 8.5"x11" sheets for your first go. Three reasons: 1. The Shrinky-Dink film is etched on the back so it holds printer ink. (use an inkjet, not a laser copier) 2. It needs to be big because it shrinks down so much. 3. A vacuum-formed sheet is unlikely to give isotropic dimensional changes. Do you want to wind up in an anisotropic dimension? Of course not. Use the film.

How do you go with getting an exact shrinkage ratio? For most projects you want a front panel for they are dimension critical, especially for things like LCD cutouts and position of controls etc.

Another way is to find a trophy engraving shop, if you get friendly with the guy and tell him it's not a rush job then you can get front panels etc engraved from multicolor plastic etc very cheap, they usually have lots of spare time at trophy shops as a lot of their work is seasonal etc. The engraved panels will last a lifetime and never fade or rub off, as the colour difference is mechanical.

Seems like I remember another thread here on the same subject that made some nice ones, but I can't even remember what to search for.

Take a peek at this thread.

https://www.electro-tech-online.com/threads/marking-panels.123957/?highlight=marking+panels

Duffy: don't be so serious! Not having kids or beeing around them I had never heard of the item! I will check into it though

Here is what I do: I draw a 1:1 and print it. At a photograhic shop I have a negative made (emulsion to the back). With masking tape I cover the back and spray-paint to get colour (in the sample only gold). I than attach the neg to the backplate using spray-on contact cement. E

That certainly is a nice looking panel, canadaelk. Does an ortho negative work better than reverse-printing on laser transparency film?

Take a look at what you can do with the decalPro system from