HDMI Monitor Problem

Hello,

I have no experience with electronics but thought I'd post here to see if anyone can help. Thanks in advance for any advice, much appreciated.

I have a Dell S2415H monitor and was trying to use a HDMI splitter between the monitor and a TV. I accidentally powered the HDMI splitter with a 12v power supply instead of the required 5v, and whilst doing so the splitter has fried a component on the main board of the monitor through the HDMI cable. The monitor has now been discontinued so it's tricky to find a replacement, but as I use it as a dual monitor setup I really need it to be fixed to sit alongside my other monitor and to avoid having to replace both.

The front of the board seems fine but the culprit seems to be on the rear side which I've circled. On my other identical monitor the component is labelled 50H1G.

Any help in finding a solution would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Aaron

if you fed 12V into the monitor through the 5V pin of the HDMI cable, there's probably more parts damaged than that one device. replace the monitor is probably the most economical solution. parts for monitors are usually only available while equipment is still under warranty, and the main board for a monitor or TV, if still available, is usually priced higher than the retail price of a new monitor or TV.

I get this: https://www.s-manuals.com/pdf/datasheet/g/5/g5250_r2.1_gmt.pdf

G5250H1T1U 50H1x Active High Yes No 1.0A -40°C to +85°C SOT-23-5

FWIW (20/20 Hindsight) One of the things I use a p-touch labeler for is marking power adapters and equipment.
I use the Flag mode and usually put two things at the barrel end:


e.g.
5V 2A
5.5/2.1 C+

NEC xyz
Monitor

The adapter gets the same.

The monitor would get:
5V 2A
5.5/2.1 C+; the 5.5/2.1 is the size of the DC barrel connector. and C+ is Center positive.

Then for "giggles", I can make an adapter with an ebay DC-DC converter with meters and current limit and put it in a hammond translucent case.

Since 5.5/2.1 and 5.5/2.5 are common; those jacks are present for input.

The output is an adapt-a-plug pigtail. You can always cut the cord of the bad adapter if you don't have a plug.

So with a 12 and 24V spare adapter. I can make 5, 6, 9, 12, 19V and set the current.
Last time I did that I haven't put the new 6V adapter back.

Source: https://utsource.net/sch/G5250H1T1U.html I use these guys a fair bit.