Help about TA8215H Amp IC

Ziddik · Oct 10, 2011

Heya

Just got a TA8215H 2x18w amplifier IC from my friend's old car stereo, and i removed the IC from the PCB to rebuild a stereo amp using it, so the problem now i am facing is how to activate the IC's mute/standby function? (i don't need them),? The ic doesn't work unless the mute/standby function activated (datasheet says)! pls help
Here is the datasheet

TA8215H.pdf

Ziddik · Oct 10, 2011

any help?

ronv · Oct 10, 2011

Tie both inputs high (Vcc).
It's very early here.

Ziddik · Oct 10, 2011

ronv said:
Tie both inputs high (Vcc).
It's very early here.

hi ronv..
how high vcc? Don't i need to add a pair of resistors? Or is it supposed to connect to +12v supply directly?

Ziddik · Oct 10, 2011

hi.. Please see the attached datasheet above, maybe you could understand it .unlike me

carbonzit · Oct 10, 2011

You really need to learn how read datasheets.

The information is there, but it take a little digging to find it. On page 6, look at the parameter "Pin (1) control voltage". That tells you everything you need to know.

Ziddik · Oct 10, 2011

does it mean that i should connect the pin 1 to a 1v supply to turn the mute on? What if i unconnected the pin 1? Maybe the mute function will turn on if i unconnected the pin 1. Right? And mute turns off when i connect the pin 1 to a 1v supply! Any wr0ng?..

carbonzit · Oct 10, 2011

No, the two choices are 1) connect pin 1 to a 1-2V supply (you got that part right), or 2) connect it to ground. Leaving it unconnected ("floating") isn't an option.

I leave it as an exercise for you to tell us what happens in each of these cases.

audioguru · Oct 10, 2011

The Engrish on the datasheet is horrible. Toshiba should learn ENGLISH!
The IC produces 18 Whats per channel only when the supply voltage is too high and when it is clipping its head off with severe distortion.
Its output clips when its output power is only 9 Watts into 4 ohms per channel.

Muting when the power is turned on prevents a loud POP. Muting when the power is already on causes a loud POP.

Ziddik · Oct 10, 2011

carbonzit said:
No, the two choices are 1) connect pin 1 to a 1-2V supply (you got that part right), or 2) connect it to ground. Leaving it unconnected ("floating") isn't an option.

I leave it as an exercise for you to tell us what happens in each of these cases.

Pin1(mute) needs +1v to activate power, and pin4(standby) needs +3v to activate, so where do i gonna connect those pins to ground? Maybe you mean i should try a voltage divider and connect one of it's pins to ground?

Ziddik · Oct 10, 2011

audioguru said:
The Engrish on the datasheet is horrible. Toshiba should learn ENGLISH!
The IC produces 18 Whats per channel only when the supply voltage is too high and when it is clipping its head off with severe distortion.
Its output clips when its output power is only 9 Watts into 4 ohms per channel.

Muting when the power is turned on prevents a loud POP. Muting when the power is already on causes a loud POP.

but the datasheet shows 18W output to 4 ohm when the supply is at 14.4V! F=1khz, THD=10%,

carbonzit · Oct 10, 2011

Yes, use a voltage divider.

Let's back up a minute here. Can you tell us how much you know about electronics?

The reason I ask is that we always seem to get into the same situation here: you ask questions; people give you answers; you say "but I don't understand; please explain".

Do you understand Ohms law? Do you know how to set up a voltage divider?

If you don't know, there's no shame in that; everyone's got to learn sometime. But it'll save a whole lot of time and back-and-forth if you can let us know what your level of knowledge is so we can tailor our responses accordingly.

unclejed613 · Oct 10, 2011

i agree, the power is 18 "Whatts" at 10%THD, which sounds painful....... a more reasonable method of specifying output power is to rate it at some point on the curve where it is AT clipping (i.e. before the curve goes vertical). from the data sheet, i'd call it at 5 watts at 0.1%THD

the point of the mute pin is to have a time delay after power is applied before power is applied to the input stage, which avoids the huge THUMP. so the OP will need a circuit that waits a half second, before driving the mute pin high. maybe as simple as a transistor or two and an RC time constant

ronv · Oct 10, 2011

I would tie them to 12 volts thru a 12K resistor.

Ziddik · Oct 10, 2011

ronv said:
I would tie them to 12 volts thru a 12K resistor.

ok.. So it is upposed to connect +1v and +3v, and please let me know one more doubt "what if i feed more than +1v,+3v ie.5v 4v etc? Does the IC FRY?

carbonzit · Oct 10, 2011

Here's how I'd do it (for the 1-volt input):

**broken link removed**

Ziddik · Oct 10, 2011

carbonzit said:
Here's how I'd do it (for the 1-volt input):

**broken link removed**

thank you carbo, but another new thing i found on the pcb that i ripped off from main pcb!. The mute pin of the IC is connected to ground using an electolytic cap! Is that alright? It is on the original pcb of the car stereo..

carbonzit · Oct 10, 2011

Then that isn't the mute pin. Are you sure you're counting the pin #s correctly?

Ziddik · Oct 10, 2011

yes, absolutely right..

audioguru · Oct 11, 2011

Ziddik said:
but the datasheet shows 18W output to 4 ohm when the supply is at 14.4V! F=1khz, THD=10%,

Correct.
It produces 18 Whats when its supply voltage is TOO HIGH at 14.4V (which will almost boil a lead-acid battery) and when it has 10% SEVERE DISTORTION because it is clipping like mad producing square-waves instead of clear sounds.

A graph in the datasheet shows that its output is only 9 Watts into 4 ohms when its supply is 13.2V and it is beginning to clip.

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