Help needed to identify component for Sony MP-CL1 pocket projector

Status
Not open for further replies.

jacob61992

New Member
Hello,

In the process of disassembling my pocket projector for modifications, I tore into an electrical component that I have no idea what it does, and the device is no longer functional. Not my finest moment. There is a number written on the component - “5425Q” - I will attach some pictures to this post of both the component and the board it connects to. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you
 

Attachments

  • 2689120D-ACE7-4E39-AE58-69EA6ADD9A7E.jpeg
    2.1 MB · Views: 328
  • CA88E2B5-6104-4DBB-9201-75824408EBB9.jpeg
    806.7 KB · Views: 318
  • 08F52E90-C861-4511-B9D7-7599344430E0.jpeg
    1.8 MB · Views: 336
  • 97CB602D-61C7-480E-9D51-F1D2F5337EE4.jpeg
    1.8 MB · Views: 295
  • 23BA4427-B7AD-4C0A-B660-F340A1F506FB.jpeg
    1,023 KB · Views: 324
The package looks like one style of quartz crystal - but it's rather too large and having one on sprung contacts makes no sense.

I think it could be a supercapacitor or lithium cell, possibly an anti-tamper setup to prevent unauthorised service - if that is disconnected it may need a programmer connected to reconfigure it.

I've seen a few pieces of equipment in the past that used systems such as that..

If you have a multimeter, do you get a DC voltage across the two pads on the PCB when power is on? If it's a supercap or rechargeable cell, there should be voltage (unless the thing has been put in to some kind of shutdown mode).


I cannot find that exact part; the numbers may be a date code or batch code - but there are some supercaps in similar-style casings, eg.


Edit - another thought..
It could be an unusually large crystal, separate from the board as it's used to set the working frequency to suit the video standard / region the device is to be sold in??
 
Last edited:
Thank you for your input!

I’ve disassembled it further and have come to the conclusion that it’s actually the system speaker. I had discounted it as a possibility before because I was assuming the slits cut for the cooling fan were for the speaker.

Having taken this thing apart from end to end I know there isn’t a speaker anywhere else in the device, so that has to be it. A quick magnetic test would have shown that much sooner. Haha

At this point I’m thinking the reason it won’t turn on is a faulty battery. According to the manual, the blinking lights at the top of the device indicate an “internal error.” I didn’t think to test whether or not it still turns on before I started tearing into it, and it had been sitting unused for several years.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Cookies are required to use this site. You must accept them to continue using the site. Learn more…