And finally, if you are repairing them, don't you have a schematic and BOM?
Very often manufacturers won't supply either spares or service information, you're essentially working blind on most equipment now. While I no longer repair TV's, almost all sets for the last few years have no circuit diagrams available, including Sony ones, repair policy is to replace complete PCB's - for the short time they will be available.
I've spend a good part of today doing a little 'reverse engineering' in order to figure out what might be wrong with an item of expensive industrial test equipment - I was working on the battery charging circuit. First port of call is to try and find datasheets for chips and any big transistors. interestingly it used a PIC 16LF819, running at only 32KHz. There was also a MAX471, 3A current sensor, three switch-mode PSU IC's (including a large one on the incoming 12V), plus various other IC's. There were also two biggish P-channel FET's next to each other, near the battery socket - I decided one was switching charging current to the battery, and the other was switching the output FROM the battery to the rest of the circuit. While testing which pin went where, on diode test/buzzer I happily noticed the output switch one was S/C on all pins
What I didn't know, as it's been in for repair for a good many months, is that my new boss had replaced a S/C tantalum (with an electrolytic), and the fuse to the battery was also blown - which I could see, as it was missing. The S/C capacitor was on the output of the FET switch, so the capacitor going S/C had obviously taken the FET out, which in turn had killed the fuse.
I've got the duff FET out, and ordered one, plus the Wickmann fuse which has blown, hopefully replacing those will effect a cure. Oh, I've also dropped the battery pack on charge from a CC PSU at 400mA, to see if that's OK or not.
Sorry for the rambling post, but that's what repair work is like now in the 21st century