Hi:
My turn. I don;t particularly like the wiring chosen in the pic.
My take without measuring anything.
Neutral and ground connections are obvious. The Line side is permanently wired to the fuse. so, you have to take the power from the fuse side.
The little leads that are connected to the fast on terminals mean one of two things:
1) The lamp is independent
2) The lamp is permanent wired to one position of the switch.
With a toggle switch, you can "follow the bat". One of the terminals that are connected is found by extending the handle to the terminal. With something like a DPDT switch, you would have the middle and the end just described. Slide switches are different.
In the US, we usually don;t switch neutral.
Without doing some type of measurement, It's hard to figure out what the switch does.
1. Independent lamp
2. non-independent lamp
YOU NEED TO SWAP THE POSITIONS OF THE BLACK WIRES on your pic `
https://www.electro-tech-online.com/attachments/wiring-of-320-jpg.97232/
You could short together the two top white wires, This would effectively not switch the neutral. It is OK to switch the neutral in a piece of equipment, but it's generally not done. White only needs to be connected to the lamp side.
It might be safer to switch the lamp out of the circuit with the "extra pole". In essence, neutral is switched to just the lamp. This would leave one terminal with the resistor unconnected.
I would expect the black wire to be switched with a connection to a terminal without the lamp lead and one without. Power from the "outside world" would connect to a terminal without the resistor.
You would provide a neutral to the lamp which could be switched or unswitched.
I'm thinking that the switch is SPDT and power is switched "horizontally". It CAN, however be such that the further apart terminals switch power and the lamp is totally independent.
If the product seems to turn on and off but the light is still on, swap the order of the connections to the lamp and black.
You can also
Remove the LEFT top connection and place your white jumper there. Now splice into the new white jumper position for the neutral.
There will then be an unused terminal on the entry module. The light will still work when switched. Neutral for your circuit would come from a splice to your jumper.
This modification will not switch the neutral. It's optional.
As it stands, I can see that the light would be on all the time. Excuse me for "thinking out loud" rather than just providing an answer.