I’m assuming this does not work since the USB extension cables inline booster chip never receives power from the computer’s USB controller. Is this correct, or could there be more to it?
OK, I had a chuckle at your obvious mistake. We have all been there at one time or another.You may want to grab a cup of coffee and laugh off my obvious mistake when installing these cables in my walls. Unfortunately, the room is complete with drywall so there’s no turning back.
Agreed. I certainly thought that as I buried this crap in my walls.OK, I had a chuckle at your obvious mistake. We have all been there at one time or another.
But...
I will shake my head at your other mistake...
Installing active devices which cannot be replaced if (when) they fail.
What will you do when one of these cables with a built-in amplifier fails?
How will you replace it?
Rip down your nicely installed drywall?
As a general rule, never, ever, install something which could easily fail, in a position where it cannot be easily replaced.
JimB
An actual USB "hub" is an addressable device, each port is separately controllable from the host.
It's unlikely to work in reverse.
(If you look in a computer device manager under USB, each hub has its own driver instance).
I'd carve up a couple of passive USB extension cables and make two back-to-back connector gender changer cables & see if that works.
Looking at the specs for a typical USB repeater IC, they do appear to be reversible so it's hopefully just a matter of getting power in the right place.
If the gender changers do not work like that, I'd try disconnecting the 5V link in the one at the PC end and add a 5V PSU connected to the gender changer cable joints at the remote end.
should I cut the lines 1 and 4 at the computer’s side?
I dont know about dry wall but I have had success with pulling cables through walls (UK) in the past.
Chop the ends from your current cable and use it to pull the new one through. Tape round the join so it pulls through smoothly.
No! Or rather, only the 5V one. The ground wire needs to remain connected end-to-end.
The data signals need a ground reference to keep them within the common mode range of the drivers and receivers.
I'd check continuity through 1-1 and 4-4 on one of the repeater cables. If the have a direct connection it should not matter which end power is fed from.
Yes I feel like an idiot!
And that includes simple junction boxes for the phone line.As a general rule, never, ever, install something which could easily fail, in a position where it cannot be easily replaced.
Perhaps this might 'cheer you up'.
One of our customers (where I used to work) bought a 20m HDMI lead from us - he chiselled down the wall, ripped floorboards up, and chiselled up the wall the other side. He then installed the cable, refitted the floorboards, and re-plastered both walls. When all was dry he redecorated, then fitted his TV and equipment, to find it didn't work.
So he ripped it all out and brought it back, playing absolute hell - so we asked if he had installed it the correct way round? (long HDMI leads have an amplifier built-in, which is powered from one end, and obviously only works one way round - and the leads have directional arrows on them).
Needless to say he hadn't got a clue which way he had fitted it, and as both ends had been under plaster we couldn't tell from that either - so fairly obviously he had ignored the instructions, and fitted it the wrong way round.
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