It's one driver per motor. To run two motors, the control input is tied together to the output #1 of of the controller and then the same for output #2. That's why you need 6 of these and that's why I'm advocating PCB construction once the design is proven.
So, after a good night's sleep, tell me what you think of Snaptrak. But if your talking about my picture of the long gismo, that is things mounted on DIN rail and no Snaptrak devices are used. You really don;t need the Snaptrak itself, if you can use the clips from WINFORD, but you still have to keep the width reasonable.
In a typical control panel (I wish I could find a pic of one of mine) you place ROWS of DIN RAIL and between the DIN RAIL you place Wiring Duct such as this:
https://www.asi-ez.com/member/x1654-Wire-Duct.asp so now you have this big Electronics erector set
This pic
https://www.alarmsaf.com/ps12408.html , although it doesn't look like DIN rail to me, it very much could be. Those last two rows of stuff could be mounted on DIN RAIL. I just don't think it is.
In general, though the cabinets are purchased with an Aluminum back plate, typically 1/8" thick. Anything mounted to the plate gets mounted via drilled and tapped holes.
The rails and the ducts add lots of flexibility within the cabinet.
In some cases, the enclosure contains a few relays and fuseholders and a barrier strip. If the case is big enough, the use of just the DIN terminals (labeled) would really make it look much neater. Suppose that as an example, there were two fuses for 240 V and a main power relay and a few interlocks, such as pressure, access panels and a few spares. There might be a N, L1, L2 and G terminals coming in and fused L1 and L2 terminals leaving. Then there would be a nice row of say dual terminals for each interlock. There would also be bussed L1, L2 and N bars available. It would look nice an be easy to troubleshoot.
This **broken link removed** sort of thing, although I don;t like that one is basically two rows of two terminals. They but up against each other and the last one ends with an end plate. There are "separator" plates that can be added too. So if the block contained 2 + sep +2 + sep + 2 + end it could be a way to connect 3 things that are part of the interlock. There is all sorts of stuff available and all of it's expensive and usually with high minimums.
The point is, you might consider terminals is distributing the 24 VDC from the power supply to 4 or 6 motor controllers. The DIN rail for each motor controller and the "wave controller", the "alarm management module", the "Power module (OEM controller)" and the "Tide controller". The restriction is the width if you use snaptrack. If you don't and use the OEM controller, then that width fixes the maximum width.
You don't have to make a plate full of swiss cheese holes to mount each circuit board. If something changes and you need a little more room, you just nudge the module a bit.
Actually, I want to see the OEM controller gone, but part of a PCB making up the motor control module. Then I'd like to see pluggable screw terminals for the power connections and header for the logic inputs and outputs.
The ideas could change. I built two entire electronic instruments using Snaptrak and DIN rail and I was really happy how it turned out. I also built a "system" with multiple cabinets using DIN rail and I was really happy how that turned out.
I was not happy when the head honco, who knows nothing about electronics said "do it this way". He had building sensors like a velocity alarm, hydrogen alarm, hydride alarm, pull stations, solenoid power going to a cylinder in a gas cabinet just being connected to a terminal strio on the back of a rack mounted enclosure.
Troubleshooting was IMPOSSIBLE. The NEXT iteration fixed some of the problems. A 37 pin connector was used to interface the rack to the wall cabinet. All wires entered through a conduit from the top into the wall cabinet. I don't remember if I used DIN terminals and cross connects or just a DIN terminal per pin. 120 VAC power was run to the box which wasn't allowed in the first generation and the 24 VDC supply for the velocity detector was placed there too.
So now, at least, you could disconnect the box and have a long cable hanging. Remove it from the rack and re-plug it in again and now were able to troubleshoot. The box should have had rack slides. I wanted the functionality on the wall.
Also, in order to save money all of the interlocks were sequential and were not latched. So, now the system blips off every now and then. Is it a pressure burst, a power glitch, the air velocity detector or a loose wire? Who knows? The velocity detector requires periodic cleaning because of dust. The fan belts need to be changed on the blower periodically. He did save some $ and I refused to work on it for the most part.