I have to heat a 4500 sq ft building as efficiently as possible, as the floor will be a cement slab a good heat mass I decided to go with radiant heat in the slab.
I'm in the business. If this is for a customer and you have to warranty the system then I very much recommend that you just buy the controls. Unless it was for my own house I would never even consider using home-built controls (I wouldn't do it there either, except just for my own amusement). Anyway, most times everything you need comes with the boiler.
Control companies have good R&D and
well tested products designed by people who know hydronic heating. I prefer
Tekmar. Excellent stuff!
Due to the perversity of these things, controls, pumps or valves will
always fail on the coldest night of the year, on a long weekend. You'll want to be able to buy an off the shelf product and get that damn thing heating again, pronto! You won't want to be frantically building a new board on Xmas eve because yours smoked itself for some freak reason, or having to rewire half the system to suit an off the shelf control. For that reason, if you build one, be sure yours wires up in standard ways.
If it's for your own amusement, and you're not in any hurry, and you don't mind having the thing screw up a few times while you get things right, then fly at it. Sounds like an interesting project. Just keep in mind that you may not be the guy servicing this thing later(you might sell). 99.9% of heating guys would take one look at a homebrew non-standard thing like that and it's new controls and total re-wiring time! They won't know what to do with it. Many heating guys aren't very good at electrical. MAJOR big bucks!!
Talk to the heating department at your local plumbing/heating wholesale. If yours are anything like my suppliers, the heating guys are experts, and will do your heat-loss calculations and a system design, and help you with choosing the proper products.
The building and the need for high efficiency sounds like a natural fit for a **broken link removed** or 200 condensing boiler (or **broken link removed**). The 100's are cheaper and still very nice. They're up to 98% efficient. In-floor radiant is perfect for making a condensing boiler work at max efficiency too.
the sensor in the slab will serve as a safe guard to prevent the slab from getting to hot (<90f). If the slab sensor gets a reading above the set point it shuts the zone down (maybe turn on a fan) till it cool down.
What we normally do for this, rather than put sensors in the slab, is put a high-limit aquastat in the radiant supply piping, just ahead of the zone valves for the radiant, and just downstream of the mixer/diverter valve and pump (or just downstream of where the injection pump ties in if it's an injection system). Set this to cut the burner call-for-heat if supply temperature exceeds ~140F (because of other failed control or some idiot messing around with the controls). Leave the pump(s) running to allow the thing to cool down between rounds, and to keep on heating even with the malfunction. Doing it this way means that your radiant loops will never see the excessively hot water. With slab sensors, by the time you sense it it's already too late. And if nobody services it for a year or two with it riding the high limit like that, at least no damage is done.