kid-kv said:
what if i took out the 4060 and used a 555 timer to get the 4hz would that work
the 22pf caps will not show up on my dmm as 0.022 nf
the display now shows 85hz to 100hz and did the pic of the board help??
Kid-kv
You could try this as a temporary experiment, but it is unacceptable as a permanent change because the oscillation frequency of the 555 will not be accurate or stable enough for good performance.
Before doing that, I would want to check that the counter portion of the circuit is working ok, that is, that U1 and U2 and the display circuits are all fine. If you can force U1 pin 10 and pin 13 low, then U1 should count up without stopping or resetting and continue to do so as long as you feed it an input at pin12. If your input is a low enough frequency then you should easily be able to see the displayed count increase in a readable way. One way to make the input signal toggle slowly is to connect up a button or toggle switch temporarily to ground and add a pullup resistor at the input. Pushing the button will provide a small number of pulses depending on how much switch bounce there is and so you should see the counter advance a few units.
If the counter is working fine, then we can turn our attention back to the timebase of U3 and U4. I would not suspect that the 4060 is blown. This is a common mistake made by novices, assuming that because things aren't working right the ICs are blown. They usually are not and usually the problem is a design mistake or a hookup mistake. I gather you don't have an oscilloscope handy. This is too bad as it would be quite helpful now.
The key is getting our oscillator in the 4060 to work right and its hard to check that without a scope. Have you already tried more than one crystal?
On the schematic, there are capacitors labelled C5, C6, C7, C8, and C9. Your board does not appear to include these. Why did you leave them out? These are important and should be placed very near each IC. You can add these by tacking them on to the underside of the board directly to the appropriate IC pads.
Of course it is critical that you be sure that your crystal capacitors be 22 pF, not 22nF or some other value.
The pic of the board is helpful, although your choice of colours is making it difficult. I would have recommended a white background, blue for IC outlines and bright green for all copper pads and traces. Labels are best left red, brown, violet or blue.
Are you available for skype chat?