Firstly, is this an experiment, or a "real" burglar / fire security system, so protect property?
For experimenting, or home automation, look at "Home Assistant" - that is a free home automation system program that can run on all sorts of different hardware.
Open source home automation that puts local control and privacy first. Powered by a worldwide community of tinkerers and DIY enthusiasts. Perfect to run on a Raspberry Pi or a local server.
You can then add any of hundreds of different types of sensors and program responses for them, quite cheaply.
Z-Wave and Zigbee are both common for home automation; they use mesh networking so any device can relay info to & from the controller if the far devices are out of direct range.
They are also two-way - if a switch module or wall switch is operated directly, the status is immediately updated in home assistant.
That's very different to how most no-name wireless switches and outlets work, and critical for proper control.
Z-Wave is slightly preferable as it has it's own frequency band away from WiFi, while Zigbee uses the same frequencies as WiFi so can be affected slightly in areas with heavy WiFi usage.
The "Sonoff" zigbee interface and their sensors are very good value, eg.
SONOFF Zigbee 3.0 USB Dongle (ZBDONGLE-E) is a new version of Sonoff's universal Zigbee USB stick. It can be used as a universal Zigbee gateway in Home Assistant, OpenHAB via ZHA or Zigbee2MQTT to locally control all your Zigbee sub-devices, so you don’t need to invest on the Zigbee hubs for...
Sonoff's DW2 WIFI version door / window sensor does not need an RF bridge or gateway, as it connects directly to the WiFi router.
A tiny little wireless motion sensor with Zigbee connection to an eWeLink Bridge to trigger other devices to turn on/off based on motion alerts.
For
real security - buy a commercial alarm system.
Do not use any wireless components for the critical intruder or fire detection devices.
Do not use anything that depends on any kind of remote or internet connection to work!
Use two sounders on different sides of the building.
Any decent system should have a battery in the main unit that keeps it fully working it for at least 8 - 12 hours if there is a power cut, plus sounders with internal rechargeable batteries that run the sounder if a cable is cut.
[If it's supposed to be a real security system rather than for show, the whole system needs to be secure against direct or indirect tampering, and not rely on battery-powered devices, or it's a waste of money].
(I use both, working together - a totally hardwired security system, plus a mostly wireless home automation system, that can also "see" all the security sensors and alarm status via an network link and the appropriate Home Assistant software plugin to communicate with the alarm).