How to power on this weird circuit?

[Zestfully4]

I have a pre-assembled DIY project I am working on for the sake of practice, and I'm perplexed as to how to power it on. Below is the schematic.

Based on it, VCC is on pin 7 of U2 and GND is on pin 2. However, the U2 component is not a typical IC as it's a board…

I have a 4.5V power source but can't seem to find a way to connect it to this circuit. I tried different combinations of red-black to one of the pads of the board and had no results. I'm a beginner student, so please be wary of that. Attaching circuit pictures from different sides below.

 

[rjenkinsgb]

It appears to be the two pads marked + and - next to Q1.

To confirm that, see if there is a copper track (on the underside of the PCB) from the + pad to the non-banded end of D3 diode, just near the connections?

 

[Nigel Goodwin]

Socket J1 is clearly labelled as the power input, 4.5V-5V - polarity isn't marked, but is obvious with positive to pin 1 and negative to pin 2.

 

[Tony Stewart]

Who can read what it does from the schematic? besides switch ABCD. No Caps but it must make funny BCD noises.

 

[carbonzit]

Hey, I found the docs for this kit: https://img.gme.cz/files/eshop_data/eshop_data/11/760-661/dsh.760-661.1.pdf

It's a "16-Tone Digital Alarm Sound Generator D.I.Y. Kit".

The part (9561) I couldn't figure out or find anything online about is a CK9561 Alarm Sound Module.

Yes, funny BCD noises indeed (16 of 'em).

 

[NightMoth]

Hello all

Sorry if it is offtopic, I'm just trying to understand how control logic on this module works.
This control circuity was clear enough for me at first sight:
Keys A,B, C,D (or external input) followed by 4011 + 4066 set logic level at U2's inputs F1, F2 and
total resistanse between U2's pins #8 and #9,
and U2 should provide 16 sound effects.

But after I re-drawn control circuity with logic gates explicitly shown, and followed the circuity logic, I found that there is can only be 12 different sound effects instead of 16.
(sound effects when C = high and D = low as for me seems the same when C = high and D = high ?)

Here is my analysis attempt:

Control circuity re-drawn

Input-output table

Can you confirm, does this circuit work like expected?
(Does it provide 16 different sound effects?)

I can't find mistakes in my re-drawn circuit by myself... need another person to rewiev.
Can somebody confirm, is my re-drawn circuit and boolean math correct?

 

[Tony Stewart]

It looks a micro-Moog with AM-FM etc. but not nearly as clear as the desc.

Someone had a good imagination for names

0000: Machine gun voice
0001: Fire truck voice
0010: Ambulance voice
0011: The police car voice
0100: Crickets sound
0101: Alarm
0110: Electronic signal sound
0111: Koh
1000: Insect song
1001: Whistle
1010: Telegraph sound
1011: Bird song
1100: ChongJi gunfire
1101: Car sirens
1110: Bass instruments sound
1111: Racing sound

Recheck wiring of D. You may be right, Something is missing

Circuit bending – Music Electronics

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reminds me when I was living with a musician buddy I grew up with who had one of the 1st drum machines and I uploaded a file onto the machine to have the sound of "Heh" from a once-famous musician.

 

[Zestfully4]

Socket J1 is clearly labelled as the power input, 4.5V-5V - polarity isn't marked, but is obvious with positive to pin 1 and negative to pin 2.

This is a DIY kit for learning, and there was no header pin included. If I don't have a header pin to install on J1, how can I power it on?

 

[Nigel Goodwin]

This is a DIY kit for learning, and there was no header pin included. If I don't have a header pin to install on J1, how can I power it on?

Solder wires in the holes, or get a header pin if you want - I've have a heap of spare two pin ones, remnants from larger strips cut down that I can't bear to throw away

 

[carbonzit]

What Nigel said. In the upper-right corner of one of your pics there are two holes where it looks like a header should be installed, marked + and -. If you don't have any header pins, then just solder fat wires in these holes and use them as attachment points for the power inputs.

 

[Tony Stewart]

, how can I power it on?

Use your skills to put a tiny slide switch in series with the wires and use hotmelt, silicon or PU to strengthen the wire joint from breaking over time and fasten neatly. (Strain relief)

 

[Zestfully4]

I've soldered two wires in place and tried to power on.

The wire is thin since the through-hole isn't wide, but it conducts 200V.

I can't get it to work. The batteries got hot first since there was a short, but I've fixed that and measured no continuity. Now nothing happens when connecting the respective terminals of battery pack and power input.

Please help.

 

[Nigel Goodwin]

Have you connected it the right way round?, red to +ve and black to -ve, at the lower right there seems to be a black wire connected to the +ve, and a big piece of the piezo melted away.

 

[Zestfully4]

Have you connected it the right way round?, red to +ve and black to -ve, at the lower right there seems to be a black wire connected to the +ve, and a big piece of the piezo melted away.

Yes, of course. I tried the other way around too.

You mean the wire that's for +ve attachment? As for the melted piece, I did it when trying to power on... I tried a couple times before doing that, so I would not bet that's the culprit.

 

[Zestfully4]

Yes, of course. I tried the other way around too.

You mean the wire that's for +ve attachment? As for the melted piece, I did it when trying to power on... I tried a couple times before doing that, so I would not bet that's the culprit.

If there's not something immediately obvious to an educated eye, I don't feel competent enough to troubleshoot the entire PCB for potential issues. It was fun practicing some soldering on it though!