How To Replace This Fuse?

gophert said:

I am guessing there is also some spring tension on the spring to make sure the circuit disconnects (and stays disconnected) once the solder melts.

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Yes there is.

While I have never seen a fuse with a resistor inside, on two or three occasions in 50 years experience I have seen slow blow fuses "pull apart" without any overload current, but simply due to mechanical creep of the solder.

JimB

You dont see them so m uch in new gear, however there are plenty of anto-surge fuses that have a wire and a spring in them.
I think the spring is to pull the wire & open the circuit rather than relay on gravity, probably part of the anti surge mechanism.

dr pepper said:

You dont see them so m uch in new gear, however there are plenty of anto-surge fuses that have a wire and a spring in them.
I think the spring is to pull the wire & open the circuit rather than relay on gravity, probably part of the anti surge mechanism.

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I've seen the spring inside a fuse many times. But the resistor... nope.
That's just dumb IMHO.

It's a fuse... it's supposed to blow when it must. All any resistor will do is DELAY the fuse blowing...

Like I said earlier in this thread...if that is the way people wanna learn stuff than I wish them well.

Anti Surge fuses sometimes have that little spring forcing a break when it's time to blow.

I htink thats the idea telly tech, anti surge fuses are often referred to as time delay.

That's what the spring doe's...it's like a little inductor causing current lag....and pulls the fuse wire open too when it's blow time.

2 functions. A resistor does NOT belong there.

It's just wrong.

Lemme stop. I can see this ending in something complicated. When it's not.

tvtech

ChrisP58 said:

You proposal wont work unless you duplicate the thermal behavior and mechanics of the original fuse.

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i hate to make this point, but fuses are relatively cheap.... if time is money, you have already far exceeded (just thinking about making some kind of rube goldberg replacement) the cost of a new fuse of the correct type. you could put a 1 ohm resistor across the fuse holder just for purposes of troubleshooting, and that might work short term, but please, onc you figure out what caused the first fuse to blow, and fix it, go get the right fuse there's a reason for fuses, and jerry-rigging a replacement is only useful for troubleshooting purposes. during normal operation, you want that fuse to be the correct type to protect yourself and your equipment. replacing the fuse, about $0.25, keeping your house from burning down, priceless...