how to strengthen magnet

Nigel Goodwin said:

So you don't do 'cheating', you simply want to gain an unfair advantage without being detected? - interesting play on words!.

However, I don't see as it's possible to make the magnets any stronger with out removing them from the motor - I wouldn't even swear it's possible to do so if you DID remove them first? - I would expect such magnets to already be as strong as the material allows?.

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oh, another one... anyway, just like what i said... ANY TWEAK IS ALLOWED AS LONG AS THE MOTOR IS NOT OPENED... is this clear enough for you to read??? or you just don't understand it??? if i open the motor and do whatever modification in it, then act as if it's never opened or deny that it was tampered, then that is cheating... trying to strengthen the magnets inside the motor without opening it, it's just common sense that it is not cheating... Nigel, sorry but, why don't you mind choosing your words instead...

audioguru said:

Are you allowed to use a battery with a higher voltage?
If you are not allowed to use a battery with a higher voltage then do the rules say that you cannot boost the voltage of the exising battery?

Then the motor will be very powerful and the car might smoke. You will need to replace the motor after winning each race.

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this is the best option so far, well, i guess i should say work around instead of trying to better the magnets... hmm... yeah, i'd try this one first... thanks a lot audioguru... you've been very helpful in all of my queries... one more thing... which is better to use:
alkaline battery with 1.5V or a nicd/nimh battery with 1.2V BUT could be charged up to 1.6V or so???

Just use NiMH and save the environment vs (niCd) and money (lots of alkalines and you have to throw them out after). Even if you can recharge the alkalines...alkalines suck.

A flux ring around the motor might do something. I dont know if they really work though.

Alkaline cells drop their voltage very quickly during high current because their internal resistance is more than 4 times as much as Ni-MH cells.

Therefore the Ni-MH cell's voltage is higher than an alkaline cell and the Ni-MH cell lasts longer.

I did a comparison of AAA cells but AA cells also have the Ni-MH cell outlasting the alkaline cell.

so by implication, you're suggesting that i use ni-mh batts??? in that case, to the eletronics shop for me..

grandmasteralok said:

so by implication, you're suggesting that i use ni-mh batts??? in that case, to the eletronics shop for me..

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Yes, I showed that the Ni-MH cells provide much more power than alkaline, last longer and you can charge them many times.

GP batteries work great, but I don't know if they make the smaller 1100's. I have their 3300 matched pack and its great. I once overheated my 12-turn double and the current from the battery was so high the wires and some solder on the comm melted.

Alternatively, you could try a Lithium Polymer aircraft battery. The 2-cell should be fine, but you will need a new speed control for it, and a new charger. And a mini fire extinguisher, just in case. The Power/weight ratio is nice for Lithium, and they can handle the currents that mini cars need. Just check all the specs.

Another thing: Most times people who race in stock motor/battery/tire competitions get a lot of advantage by just buying new motors/batteries all the time. Some buy new crap EVERY race. Way too much money to burn, but people do it. Not being able to cut the armature means that those guys with new motors will automatically be at an advantage, as long as their car is tracking fine.

I could be wrong but don't some motors need a run in period to wear the brushes into shape?