Heating elements, lamp filaments etc. are normally "positive temperature coefficient", which means the resistance increases as they get hotter, and the current reduces somewhat - but it's still got to be able to warm up in the first place!
Yes, is an element was faulty it will either be open-circuit, or short ed to earth - check for a reading from the element to the earth connection or metal body work.
It is common for the resistance wire in a heating element to short to the casing. This should blow a fuse or trip a circuit-breaker.
31 Ohms suggests a 2kW-rated element.
It is common for the resistance wire in a heating element to short to the casing. This should blow a fuse or trip a circuit-breaker. 31 Ohms suggests a 2kW-rated element.
As per the double post, generally the fan stops working or is clogged.
Most counter top kitchen appliances, coffee makers et-al, have these fuses fitted for safety.
The 3.15 fuse appears to be mounted to the circuit board as FS1.. Why not place a 100 watt bulb in series with now missing thermal fuse and see if any other problems show up. (Fan,short,relay,etc).
I shorted both thermal fuses. Is it a good idea to have a thermal fuse on both the line and neutral? I thought it was frowned upon.
Anyway, it switches on now and the fan is working when I press start. If it fully works after replacing the thermal fuse, I will be stunned. I would be interested in knowing why all three fuses failed and yet there is no sign of a fault.
There's a VDR across the mains, a mains spike could cause the 3.15A fuse to blow - but the thermal fuses would take more than that to blow (multiple numbers of seconds - perhaps minutes - for them to get to a high enough temperature). I wonder if perhaps the 3.15A fuse blew, and somehow left the element running with no control and no fan?.