My guess would be aluminium electrolytic capacitors. I'm also guessing that the black mark indicates the negative lead - does the arrow on the PCB align with the black sides? Only 1 arrowhead is visible.
Also, that looks like a very old board, any idea what year it was manufactured?
We've used similar style ones in the past, but I cannot figure out where they came from! I'd guess Farnells, though they do not seem to do that wide, low profile style any more.
They may well have been discontinued by the manufacturers in favour of surface mount ones.
If the exact size / proportions are not important, then there are a few types available:
Going to desolder them and check. Can't measure them properly in-circuit. It's for a backlight inverter board where the fuse has blown. Lots of darkening on the PCB.
Going to desolder them and check. Can't measure them properly in-circuit. It's for a backlight inverter board where the fuse has blown. Lots of darkening on the PCB.
I would say it's VERY, VERY unlikely to be those capacitors. Have you replaced the fuse?, and did it blow again? - inverter fuse failure for no reason is common.
I've always presumed it's simply aging/failure of the fuse, no cause for it.
Replace the fuse, it will be perfectly fine - as a Sony Dealer Engineer I replaced countless inverter fuses (SM ones) in numerous Sony sets - and in fact I have one of them in my bedroom. Incidentally the fuse is on the inverter board, which is part of the LCD panel assembly, and which isn't a Sony part at all.
When removed from the boards, almost all 20 of the capacitors measured out of spec between no reading to typically 80-140µF.
Attached is a photo showing the burnt PCB leaded fuse. Looking at photos of other inverter boards for sale, it seems to be a F10A. Is anyone able to confirm from the schematics?
As it's not a Sony board there's no schematic for it, and no information at all (it's supplied by the LCD panel manufacturer as part of the LCD).
It's been so long now I can't remember what I used to fit - but stick your meter on the 10A range across the fuse, and measure what current it takes (that's what I did originally).