It turns out for values used by the circuit, the discharge pin was pulling an enormous amount of current from the 470uF capacitor. In doing so may have damaged the 555IC. Thus adding an resistor to the pin 7 would reduce the inrush current and limit the amount.
The transistor will provide the output with better control options when the current rating is possible within the or any Transistors current rating per device datasheet.
As for the reason why the motor is not moving, the 9V battery may not have the current rating for that configuration.
The battery should operate the motor, the battery should operate the relay, all tho what of both? Possibly not so well, the odds are that the IC being the driver for the relay OR motor if the battery cannot sustain stable power/current to the circuit would cause oscillation from the IC, to us it would be viewed as an dim lit bulb, or an buzzing from the relay if the battery were just able to drive the circuit, tho that is a slim chance and would require the battery to be in a very narrow remaining power window, (falling out of regulation) Otherwise it would not be noticeable.
If the IC is damaged, then the end result could be an different number of things, the IC getting warm is a sign that it is attempting to drive the relay if the IC is still in working order by the assumption of the 9V battery initially having weak current availability to begin with, and the only exception to that would be potential flyback voltage that can well exceed the battery by double with timed inductor collapse thus damaging the IC.
an inductor can even be used to power an CFL light bulb from an 1.5V AA battery.
So the return from that relay shutting down can be considerable.
That's the issue that running inductive circuits face with an inductor of some resistance, the 70R coil in the relay @ 5V would require 71 or so ma draw to be fully on, then on shut down the fly back Diode is supposed to remove as much of the shut down spike as it can even tho it is an sluggish responder in doing so, it still shows effectiveness on many circuits for basic spike removal.
The motor, it would need to have an Ohmmeter placed across the terminal leads to find the resistance rating then an current rating could be determined, OR the motor could be placed with the motors positive lead on power supply +,
the motors common lead to the multimeters red test probe with the meter set on current mode, on auto range for digital or highest setting for analog types, with the multimeter common black lead to the power supplies common, then observe the reading and then that would indicate the motors current use in basic terms, motors and many coil filament lights take an amount more to start them the the current level settles to the rated value.
The multimeter is completing the circuit for the motor in series whilst monitoring the current use by the motor.
Current is an overly used word here....