ALL the electronics You tube videos are made by people on the other side of the world who carry the solder on the dirty tip of their soldering iron. The amplifier videos all show small speakers with no enclosures playing no low frequencies. A few of the videos show a little 9V battery.
Did you notice that the LA4440 and CD6283 look the same but their pin numbers are different?
Have a look at this, both (c13, c14) ceramic caps bellow the 1uf electrolyte are 102, if i replace them using 103 would that be a huge problem? The 102 isn't available in the market near me.
I don't have that exact schematic sorry for that. But i worked on this one, any Idea how to improve this one and make it long lasting? As the right channel produces lower sound than the left one after a several days. I used 8ohm boxes.
Okay but what about this one? I attached a heatsink on this one and the ic wasn't even heating much when it was amplifying music. Same thing happened after a day or two, right channel not as loud as the left one, after i replaced the 4.7uf caps connected to the input wires (left and right) right channel was working fine but with a lot of noise distortion.
This thread is a nightmare. Two amplifier ICs are talked about, but they use different pin functions.
The schematic in post #23 of a CD6283 amplifier has its 10uF input capacitors (the HUGE value passes earthquake frequencies down to 0.5Hz) and have backwards polarity.
The pcb shows ceramic input capacitors C13 and C14 that should be 0.22uF for good bass but Tie Bravo is asking about 102 which is way too small at 0.001uF or 103 which is 0.01uF to produce no bass.
The Cardboard (??) circuit board has its parts too far apart. The LA44440 circuit also has backwards polarity of its input capacitors. Why does it have low value R1 and R2?
This thread is a nightmare. Two amplifier ICs are talked about, but they use different pin functions.
The schematic in post #23 of a CD6283 amplifier has its 10uF input capacitors (the value passes earthquake freq