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IC pin broke off

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AceOfHearts

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Hi there,

After removing and inserting my 8051 IC into the breadboard repeatedly (due to programming and reporgramming) the +Vs pin broke off.

I was wondering if any one has found any solution to the problem?

I was thinking of an IC socket, but not sure how practical this might be?

Help appreciated.
 
AceOfHearts said:
Hi there,

After removing and inserting my 8051 IC into the breadboard repeatedly (due to programming and reporgramming) the +Vs pin broke off.

I was wondering if any one has found any solution to the problem?

I was thinking of an IC socket, but not sure how practical this might be?

Help appreciated.

More careful removal? Not so suprising really since it's just wear I guess. I suppose you could permanently mate the IC with a socket and use it until the socket breaks, and then move the IC over to a new socket and repeat.
 
AceOfHearts said:
Hi there,

After removing and inserting my 8051 IC into the breadboard repeatedly (due to programming and reporgramming) the +Vs pin broke off.

I was wondering if any one has found any solution to the problem?

I was thinking of an IC socket, but not sure how practical this might be?

Help appreciated.

The solution I've been using for years and years, is to insert my working PIC's in turned pin sockets - the pins are straight and easily go in and out of the target board sockets, and if you do break a pin? (I never have in over ten years!) you simply replace the socket.

Thanks to Don MnKenzie for that tip!.
 
Thanks for that. The socket seem to be as expensive!

£5.30 at RS electronics!

The only justification would be if the pins on the socket is much stronger than the ICs. Though I have never seen or used one, I would not know.

(These 8051's are not cheap btw, is there a good place to buy them, UK website?)
 
Nigel Goodwin said:
The solution I've been using for years and years, is to insert my working PIC's in turned pin sockets - the pins are straight and easily go in and out of the target board sockets, and if you do break a pin? (I never have in over ten years!) you simply replace the socket.

Thanks to Don MnKenzie for that tip!.

Thank you.

Sounds like, a sockets pins are more suitable for the breadbaord as it is streighter compared to the IC's. This sounds like the perfect solution.

Btw, what do you mean by "turned" pin sockets?

Thanks again.
 
AceOfHearts said:
Thank you.

Sounds like, a sockets pins are more suitable for the breadbaord as it is streighter compared to the IC's. This sounds like the perfect solution.

Btw, what do you mean by "turned" pin sockets?

Thanks again.

'Turned' = 'Machined', like a lathe...

A ZIF socket might be a worth-while investment, atleast for your programmer $6-7 USD for a 40 pin universal (different width chips fit it). The chips slip in and out, lever locks them in. Zero-Insertion-Force.

The broken chip can be repaired. Find an old socket to protect the remaining pins, doesn't neccessarill need to be big enough for all the pins, just something to hold on to and handle with out stressing/damaging more pins. The silicon chip itself is tiny compared to the outer case, the pins are connected with gold wire. Anyway if you use a dremel or a drill, you can expose enough of the lead to solder to. I think most cases are plastic these days, unless there is high power and heat. The lead is thin, so use a light touch or it'll dissapear. Might want to practice on a junk house marked chip.
 
I've been using the same breadboard modules for more than 20 years.
They are soft enough that never I broke the micros taken hundreds of times, for each project, for reprogramming in the PICstart plus.

Just as a precaution and to avoid any harm to my fingers I use a set of extractors bought 25 years ago at Radio Shack USA.

BTW, could you buy a new micro?. Your time, is most probably, much more valuable than any micro.

In fact, I always buy three of each. Never stopped after burning one of them during a weekend.
 
Hank,

I think the socket pops out because the pins are too short for the breadboard to grip. You may be able to find sockets with longer pins from DigiKey.

A better answer is to do ICSP and leave the 16F88 on the breadboard. Make a programming cable (IDC to individual wires) or find a header that will stay put in the breadboard. Yeah back to that.

I have one breadboard that will hold the header pins and 2 similar ones that will not. Go figure.
 
For breadboards standard IC sockets pin length is not enough sometimes the pins not touching the breadboard connections.

I’m using wire wrap type IC sockets for breadboard circuits. Which has a longer pin length than a standard DIL socket.

Here is a picture of it, the pin length is too much so I cut at a preferred height leaving which is required by the bread board.
 

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Gayan Soyza said:
For breadboards standard IC sockets pin length is not enough sometimes the pins not touching the breadboard connections.

I’m using wire wrap type IC sockets for breadboard circuits. Which has a longer pin length than a standard DIL socket.

Here is a picture of it, the pin length is too much so I cut at a preferred height leaving which is required by the bread board.



very well Gayan ... I appreciate... thanks for answer.. it may also help me...

Regards,

Simran..:)
 
Park of the +Vs pin was still showing, so what I did was I soldered a piece of wire onto it and connect the wire to +Vs.

I still have not got hold of anything to protect the remaining pins.

Now Im thinking if turned pin socket or wire wrapped socket would be better. It has to be for the breadboard, for that turned pins could be too short....?
 
Last edited:
Hank Fletcher said:
I had an idea of using an IC socket with my 16F88s in the interest of limiting wear on those while experimenting and re-programming. I ordered these IC sockets:
https://www.dipmicro.com/store/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=274
but the problem is, they hold the PIC great, but they spring out of a bread board (tried two different bread board brands). Am I missing something?

That's because you are using the solder tail sockets. Find the ones with the turned pins. They work very well, and they don't come apart like the solder tails do.
 
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