LCD Power Supply

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JD19. I will swap out the in/out board and see if it makes a difference. I can send you the old power supply if you want to pay the shipping.
 
Any leads would help me out

Hey,
I posted the following on this thread in Augs and got no response. I would appreciate any help at all...even if it a point in the direction of another forum.

"Hi everyone,
I just signed up for this board. 3 days ago my MAG 32in lcd tv distorted & the lcd shut off. The sound was still on. Now, when I turn it on, it shows the loading screen for a second (with a deeper black bar in the center) and shuts off. The sounds still plays. I am thinking it is a power issue. I have the same power board as this one (I believe this is the one this topic is about)
**broken link removed**
I would love to know what I need to do to get this up and running again. I can post pictures of the board if need be. I noticed a lot of cold solder as well as evidence of resoldering/work by hand previously. I would be greatly in your debt if any of you can help me. I am dying without TV!"
 
jomede - It's a deal. email me at jdonovan19@bresnan.net and we can work out the details.

RosaCar - By what yours is doing I don't think it is the power supply. It could be be but I've never seen that power supply (i have the S0804-0901 or yellow ps). It is used in the early versions of the Polariod FLMs. They are a bit more complicated (they have more outputs and feedbacks). You should start by checking all the output on the two White connectors on the right. use a digital meter and reference everything to ground (GND or the metal case of the tv). I suspect they are all good and if they are then the problem will most likely be on the A/D board or the inverter (the inverter is not in the control box, you have to take the rest of the back off the tv to get to the inverter).

Hope that helps!

JD
 
RosaCar - I misread your post. It could be your power supply. take a detailed picture of the power supply (including the bottom solder joints) and post the picture. I'll take a look.

What is the model number of your tv?
 
JD19 said:
RosaCar - I misread your post. It could be your power supply. take a detailed picture of the power supply (including the bottom solder joints) and post the picture. I'll take a look.

What is the model number of your tv?
Click to expand...

Thanks JD for responding. I will do that ASAP.
 
I have this same Polaroid no signs of power. I have change the caps the zener diode and even have a whole other power supply. Still nothing no power. This TV has become my lifes mission to fix at this point.

What is the control box .. ? Inside the metal cover is the PS and two other boards. I think one has a coaxial cable going into it ... Is one of these the control box ?
 

It's really odd that another power supply didn't work. Did you replace the basics first..power cord & fuse? Sorry, don't mean to imply you don't know what you are doing-you sound like you have tried quite a bit already.
 
No I checked the fuse but I have not replaced the cord . Don't worry about implying anything I don't know what I'm doing. I'm fairly mechanical just not sure. I did check for voltage with the cord plugged in and it has it.

Chad
 
Help please

Well i wanted to replace the diode, resistor and the zener but i sont know what voltade i need to buy. i have the 200-POO-MLT666A-AH ( same as the ones karyoker changed)
 
Sounds like these power supply boards are junk. I'd just replace the thing but they seem to be hard to find. I have the TC18607A1 (200-P00-MLT666A-AH but it's in the Element FLX-3210 TV. Same problem as most of you. No Power, no standby light, no nothing! I have AC input but no DC voltages at any of the output connectors. It sounds like you've all been working on this for the better part of a year. Not worth it for such a cheap TV but if any of you have resolved the issue and could show me a shortcut, I'll give it a whirl. If not, have any of you found one of these at a reasonable price?
 
I have the early power supply Polaroid FLM-323 (yellow board) and have traced out all of the voltages and found the low side of IC 2 is zero. if you test the low side of IC 1,3,4 you should get voltages reflecting connector CN 3. I think because the output of IC 2 is connected to Connector CN 2 it should be 24 volts. I cannot find a replacement part NEC2561 can any one help. THANKS
 
Thanks for the thread I 've got the same problems with my Tv I need to fix it by myself. I ll upload some pics.

Advertising deleted - moderator.
 
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Polaroid FLM-323

Ok...I have changed the power suppy. Tv powers up. Had no picture so I put in a used Main Board. Tv then had a tye dyed look to it. I then changed the T-conn board on the back of the LCD Screen behind the control box. Got a good picture except for the 6 wide spot where there is no red color. I then ordered a new main board and swapped it out. Thinking the main board I got was bad I RMA'd it and got another only to have the same spot with no color. I do not know where to go from here. I am into this tv for 175.00 (repair parts) and dont know if it is worth spending another penny on. Anyone had a similar looking screen that was able to be fixed? If so what part did you change. I have checked all of my connections by wiggling while the tv is powered on and it makes no difference to the bad spot on the screen. Note: When the tv powers on and flashes the polaroid logo the screen is perfect. Pictures included
 

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That's a pretty obvious sign of a duff LCD panel - it 'might' actually be the LVDS board, but that's not normally available separately, but comes as part of the panel.
 
Nigel Goodwin said:
That's a pretty obvious sign of a duff LCD panel - it 'might' actually be the LVDS board, but that's not normally available separately, but comes as part of the panel.
Click to expand...

Is the LVDS boaed the same as the T-conn board? I have changed this already. Board that is mounted on the back of the LCD with with 4 ribbon calbes that run to the top of the LCD Screen. Also has a small multi wire cable tat runs to the main board.
 
It's hard to tell from that picture, but it's usually at the top of the panel under a screening can.
 
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