I use the boat's alternator to equalize my boat batteries. I store my boat at a location where there is no AC power line, so cannot use an AC powered constant-current supply to equalize them like I can do to my automotive and aircraft batteries at home.
I trick the boat's alternator Voltage Regulator into jumping the output voltage from a nominal 14.2V to about 16V. I installed a toggle switch that controls the VR.
At 16V, the battery initially absorbs an (over) charge of ~ 30A, but as the battery voltage approaches 15.5V and higher, the charging current naturally drops to 5 to 10A. Doing this for about 20 to 30 min once every three to six months gets me several years more out of a starting or house battery than I previously got without equalizing.
I routinely equalize my flooded aircraft batteries and batteries in little-used vehicles like my Jeep and Motorhome. I have found that periodic equalizing does more for infrequently driven or used flooded lead acid batteries than pulse chargers.
As to Mosaic's experiments, I see no real science there; just more claims and anecdotes...
As to Mosaic's experiments, I see no real science there; just more claims and anecdotes...
I guess I would need to publish a paper to really present the science done over the last 2 years and then have it verified by an independent lab in order to establish veracity.
That's not really on the cards at the moment.
I am simply sharing with the forum what I have seen and done.
I can share Excel datalogs of battery recoveries/attempted recoveries as well as datalogs of battery Ah discharge curves, but those can be questioned as to authenticity as well.
It's disappointing to see a fellow member label my statements as 'claims' and 'anecdotes', presupposing I spent the last two years concocting data just to come back and make claims which have no merit.
...
Right now however i'd like to hear how Mike fooled his alternator and maybe i'll try that too. ...
The conclusions certainly align with my data.This would support your claim:
https://vershv.narod.ru/sdarticle.pdf
Instead of current sensor you could use a shunt. It is more accurate and much cheaper.
Maybe we should move this discussion to a new thread in the Automotive Forum?
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