Logitech Z 2300 Controller

I have the Logitech Z 2300 2.1 sound system for my PC, but the volume control pod seems to have croaked. I think one of the dual-ganged pots has one of the channels out, so only one speaker works.

I was wondering if anyone else has either had this problem and had any information regarding the circuit in the control pod. It is relatively simple, so if I cannot find any information online I am going to just look at the PCB and draw up a schematic and see if I can build my own pod. But I figured I'd see if anyone else has done it first.

(I have already extensively searched google. I found one fellow on YouTube who built a replacement but there is something about Logitech controlling the release of the circuit for the control board...)

I have a Logitech Z 2300 system as well but have lost the volume control pod.

Is there a schematic of the pin-out used at the connection plug into the sub-woofer? Short of opening the sub-woofer box and tracing each connection to the appropriate end point.

The chances that it's the POT itself that failed are EXTREMELY low.

No, lost, as in not physically in my hand. I don't have it anymore.
So is there a schematic of the pinouts available?
There is a master volume control pot, so left and right channels - so 4 pins?
There is an amplifier subwoofer volume control pot as well so possibly another 4 pins?
There is the stanby on/off switch so possibly 2 more pins?
Probably two pins for the LED and two pins for the phone jack cutoff.
Any mapping would be great.

regarding replacement of the logitech z 2300 volume control pod / wired remote (soundtouch):


I have the information regarding the wiring diagram and a slightly simplified schematic generated by tracing the copper traces on the volume control PCB.

Unfortunately, it is not my work. Someone else performed the work and even built a replacement control board. Logitech says the wiring diagrams are "not a public document" (**broken link removed** there is a post by a logitech representative towards the bottom of this page).

Logitech will also not sell replacements.

I found out this information watching the youtube video YouTube - Replacement Control Pod for Logitech Z-2300

the user who posted the video, derivativeofjohn, will not release his wiring diagram publicly, due to the above logitech post. I am not sure if I am free to release it either, even giving him appropriate credit. (His website is **broken link removed**)

You can contact him directly via YouTube private message. The video was posted in October of this year (2009) and he got back to me within a day or two. He asked me not to release the information due to Logitech's post, and since he runs an online electronics website, that could incite legal action from Logitech.

I am no lawyer, but "not a public document" means they wont release their document to the public. Like all of these companies, they only release to their warranty repair centre's (if there are any). It doesn't mean anything about releasing reverse engineered schematics that you've done yourself.

Depends on if they copyrighted the schematic or not. Reverse engineering the schematic is a whole lot of sketchy area legally, at least that I know of.

it's such a cheap part...

They should have them in stock and available for when ours fails.

In my case there is a crackling in the right speaker when I adjust the volume. And if I don't fine tune it just right, the right speaker doesn't have any output at all.

So frustrating

Here you guys go....

ok, first off there are no legal anything with this and if you think there is, your stupid.

There are 10 wires needed to make your very own controller and im going tell you what they do.

There was a guy that called it a VGA cable, well a VGA cable is a Sub D-15 so sure if you want to call it that great. the guy in the you tube vid used a Sub D-15 cable and it works just fine because that cable is st straight through.. pin 1 goes to pin 1 and pin 2 goes to pin 2 ect...

If you use a "VGA" (please NOTE THE GENDER BEFORE you cut) Cable cut

in half, the RED and BLACK and your StdBy and PGnd ( pin 5 & pin 15 )

connecting these will turn on your Logitech Z02300!

If you brake apart your pod controler this is what you will find inside.



| NAME | Color | What it is... | PIN| |


WA1 & WA2 |Black (big)| Are common or Ground.. Also Audio Ground | CASE |

StdBy | yellow | Turns on the Amp | #5 |

Vreg | Green | Voltage output ( connects to LED ) | #4 |

PGnd | Red | Power Ground |#15 |

LL | Blue | Left Line Input ( Audio + ) |#12 |

Sgnd | Black | Signal Ground ( Audio - ) Also Common Ground | #3 |

RL | Orange | Right Line Input ( Audio + ) | #6 |

Sline | Brown |Controls the Subs Gain via head phone return line | #1 |

LHP | White | Left Head Phone |#13 |

Rhp | Purple | Right Head Phone |#11 |





Ill Post More info if you guys want.

Line inputs are capacitor coupled


**broken link removed**

I found a DB-15 F connector and built my proto right off of it.
.: .: .: :.

This is one i made just to make sure that It works.. and of corse it does...


illll try to make a schematic in paint and post it later.

Parts needed are as followed:

1 - 2kΩ Resistor
1 - 2.6MΩ Resistor
1 - 22MΩ Resistor
2 - 240Ω Resistor
2 - 5kΩ potentiometer
2 - .01µf (104k) Capacitors
1 - 3 volt LED (color of your choice =D )
1 - DB-15F connector
1 - Switching device (pin 5&15)
1 - stereo Audio connector (3.5mm - 1/8" or Stereo RCA.)

At Radioshack This will cost you around $18.27. They have everything you will need...

Note: If using as a SUB ONLY 6&3 get tied together and get capacitor coupled over ground instead of using the balanced method. This will Give you one input )

p.s. before you connect any audio sorce, Test your audio input for voltage...
My blue iPod Nano is now sounddddllleesssss!
.: :.
AGAIN before you connect any audio sorce, Test your audio input for voltage...

I made you guys soething...

SCHEMATIC FOR THE LOGITECH Z-2300 (211695-0000-A3) REPLACEMENT T3 CONTROL 2308 BOARD





SCHEMATIC FOR THE LOGITECH Z-2300 (211695-0000-A3) REPLACEMENT T3 CONTROL 2308 BOARD

ONLY because I am bad ass like that...

HxCxK Productions!

GREAT SCHMEMATIC!!!

To the poster that mentioned the DUAL POT your EXCATELY right! The other poster is dead wrong, trimmer pots go bad all the time.

On the controller (see schematic above) the dual 5k potentiometer on my unit went bad. How to test? Plug in some headphones. If one channel is bad on your phones then it is for sure that controller pot (the BIG dial.) The plugged-in headphones remove the audio signal from the amp and shunt it to the headphones THRU the dual pot. Also, you might plug in your headphones to the computer to test audio output to make sure it is not comp audio related.

Under the rubber slider pads (4) there is are screws. Just punch a small Phillips screwdriver and backout the screws. Pull of the big knob and open the case.

Now the hard part - where to find a dual 5 K potentiometer to replace the bad one.


Any help there HxCxK???


GL!

Email Me and I'll send you one! Free!

By the way, me and my dad are making an awesome DIY kit and pre built controlers that are totally aweome!! The have way awesome VU meters for L and R channels along with other inputs!!
If you guys want more info on what we are doing let me know with a replay here!!

Or contact us!

HxCxK productions
Hxcxkproductions@gmail.com
1(559)492-9569

HxCxK said:

By the way, me and my dad are making an awesome DIY kit and pre built controlers that are totally aweome!! The have way awesome VU meters for L and R channels along with other inputs!!
If you guys want more info on what we are doing let me know with a replay here!!

Or contact us!

HxCxK productions
Hxcxkproductions@gmail.com
1(559)492-9569

Click to expand...

Would love more info on this I'm sure tons of people would buy pre built controllers. Somebody is selling used controllers on ebay for $76, and somebody else is selling new ones for $85!! Kinda ridiculous seeing as I only paid about $110 for the whole speaker set... Hope you're still working on this!

bengrulz said:

Would love more info on this I'm sure tons of people would buy pre built controllers. Somebody is selling used controllers on ebay for $76, and somebody else is selling new ones for $85!! Kinda ridiculous seeing as I only paid about $110 for the whole speaker set... Hope you're still working on this!

Click to expand...

Since HxCxK has posted his work, I've revealed mine in full.

Parts cost for a DIY remote should be under $10 (ignoring cables and a breadboard or PCB). It's a simple enough circuit that you could easily build one without a PCB. I was just lazy.

NICE ONE HxCxK

NICE ONE HxCxK but you might want to take the junction of the two capacitors to earth.


Regards.

HxCxK said:

before you connect any audio sorce, Test your audio input for voltage...
My blue iPod Nano is now sounddddllleesssss!
.:View attachment 40003:.
AGAIN before you connect any audio sorce, Test your audio input for voltage...

Click to expand...

Hi HxCxK ,

I am not sure what you mean, the remote pod can destroy the ipod?
When you mean Test your audio input for voltage you mean
a) to test the audio input circut on the remote for voltage. I this case there should be now voltage, correct esp not the 17v
b) or do you mean to test the ipod audio signal for correct voltage...

To say I know nothing about DIY electronics repair is an understatement. However, I think I made it this far in trying to figure out what happened to my speakers:

ooomwizard said:

Now the hard part - where to find a dual 5 K potentiometer to replace the bad one.

Click to expand...

Does anyone know where I can find one that will fit on the original circuit board? I'm attempting to fix the broken Logitech controller before I go out and buy a custom one.

Also, jseaber wrote on his website that a 10k pot will work in the 5k's place. Why does that work?

Also, jseaber wrote on his website that a 10k pot will work in the 5k's place. Why does that work?

Click to expand...

It's just a simple voltage divider, so they work to a point. 200 ohm probably wouldn't work and neither would 10 M ohms.

I think you also need an audio or LOG taper.

If anyone have interest. You can buy a replacement control pod from here:

Blatant link to OPs own ebay site deleted by Moderator.