Lots of I/O pins

Status
Not open for further replies.
Hey guys thanks so much for all the help. So many good ideas im trying to research and find which one fits me best.

For now I like the 74HC595 idea best, it seem simple and able to do exactly what i need.

I going to get to work on the design and post up some stuff before i buy the MASS amount of parts.

Thanks

Also do yall know of any software that will help with timing and stuff with music? Or do I have to really type ALL that code?
 
Last edited:
Like I suggested, an Olsen 595 xmas light controller. FREE software called VIXEN
Do a search
as a side note if your interested I have an Olsen 595 board about 80% populated (needs to have leds soldered in.
I have ALL the necessary parts. This will get you 64 channels of ON/OFF
have lots of SSR boards as well but could be adapted to use relays. The SSR boards use an opticoupler. I have enought parts to build 25 SSR boards
over at computer christmas and plnet christmas they have all the docs needed as well as assembly instrutions and theroy of operation.
 
Sorry Jake,

he can email me at poolsharkclem@msn.com
Click to expand...

I will not pass on your details, the person i know builds these systems for sale world wide, and would not be interested in someone wanting to know how to construct what he has spent years perfecting.

I meant if you was unable to make a reliable and safe system, than i could put you in contact with someone who has already done all this, and the systems are used in many of the biggest pyro shows throughout the world.
One that comes to mind of recent times was the commonwealth games in India.

Its a small market that is already quite well covered with a reputable product.

Have you looked into you liability of a product, should something fail and cause bodily harm to someone.

Pete.
 
MrDEB: I did some research into that. Cost at the lowest looks to be $5 per channel. With 200 channels that's $1000. I need to be spending that in other parts of the show. I love the idea, and it looks like the easiest way, but not enough $$ in the budget.
Though I did put it all in a file so I can come back to it if this other idea fails. Thanks for your help.

SABorn: Oh trust me man, I totally understand. I wouldn't want to give away my ideas either. But it never hurts to ask. lol
Do you have a link to his site? I would love to just look at some of his stuff.
 
Keep in mind that you willmostly get what you pay for.
The relays could be connected directly lowering costs.
Don't know where you got $5 par channel. The Olsen 595 for 64 channels complete only cost me $35-40. The costs could go way up if you need to add a computer but a laptop works. Surplus relays etc would keep the costs down.
pm me if you want to purchase the spare olsen 595 board. its a start.
 
I don't know much about the VIXEN software. I'll do more research into it. and let you know.

EDIT: Ok i've looked into it more. i really like this alot.
The way I am wanting to do this is with a big box that houses all the boards, and use VGA cable to send the signal out to smaller boxes that house the relay boards. This saves me LOTS on the very expensive 16 gauge wire that is need to send power to the E-fuses. Each smaller box only needs 25-40 relays. So do they make a board with less channels? and how are these boards bridgeable?

If you dont mind, could you send me some pictures of your system. I would love to buy that board from you if this is what i decide to do.

Thanks so much for your help.
 
Last edited:
If you look at the cost of relay vs solid state you should find SS is cheeper, its faster, more reliable and safer. Andy
 
4pyros said:
If you look at the cost of relay vs solid state you should find SS is cheeper, its faster, more reliable and safer. Andy
Click to expand...

Really? Ok, do you have a site for SSRs, that is lower than .80 a relay for 12 VDC at 10A? Because if so, I would LOVE to do SSRs
 
Really? Ok, do you have a site for SSRs, that is lower than .80 a relay for 12 VDC at 10A? Because if so, I would LOVE to do SSRs
Click to expand...
Dont by SSR modules make them! Its only a few parts and in quantities should only cost about .30 cents a channel.
Start looking hear; **broken link removed**
Andy
 
Last edited:
I use a MOFSET to power the relays, cause I havent been able to find a MOFSET that will handle 12VDC at 10A, controled by a small 5v 20ma signal
 
Last edited:
I use a MOFSET to power the relays, cause I havent been able to find a MOFSET that will handle 12VDC at 10A, controled by a small 5v 20ma signal
Click to expand...
Alright let me guess you are making your own igniters. Most commercial igniters have an all fire current rating of 1 amp, why do you need 10 amps? Andy
 
Yes i am. Come to think of it...i guess I don't need 10A. I had those cause I was controlling lights too. But now i'm not. SO..... I can set the beautiful E-fuses off with 3 AA batteries through 50 feet of 18AWG wire. That's about 1.5A. So if I had a MOFSET that could handle 3-5A that would work perfectly. Time to go looking again. Thanks for saying that. It makes a lot of sense
 
Sounds like me many years ago!
 
The IRL520 is a 100V, 9A logic level MOSFET but any logic level MOSFET should be good. You will need a series resistor to limit the current depending on your ignitor resistance.

Mike.
 
It uses 30 gauge Nichrome wire, about an inch long. So I resist it down to just enough power to fire the fuse?
 
One inch of 30 gauge NiCr will have a resistance of around 0.5Ω and require about 3A to blow. If using 12V then a 4Ω series resistor will work.

Mike.
 
Mr. Mike you are one smart cookie! And save me A LOT of time and work. Which is good cause I'm super busy with Volunteer Fire Department stuff. Yes I thought it a good idea, since I'm going to be blowing stuff up.

So I will need a 4ohm resistor, and a 5A MOSFET. So the IRL520 should work perfect. And need NO relay. And its much faster. I am one happy man right now.

MrDEB: If you could give me some more info on the boards you have and parts, we might can work out a deal. And any advice on the 25-40 channel boards as well and how to link them. My searches have failed. Though I have downloaded and learn to use VIXEN.
 
Seems like you have choices: one is to let the fusee itself limit the current, which means it will blow very fast, unloading the NFET quicker. Another is to use a series resistance to lower the available current, but wait longer for the fusee to blow. Another is to lower the supply voltage from 12V to say 6V, and that will lower the current, but take only a bit longer.

If you are setting these off manually (with a switch and battery), what do you use for voltage, and do you put resistance in?
 
The show I did on the first using MEGA and hand writing the code, used 36 gauge NiCr. And set off with relays and a 12VDC Rechargeable Battery. NO resistance at all. They NEED to be super fast to blow. Not just heat up. The nichrome BLOWS up inside throwing 2000 degree metal into the life charge. So just heating up slowly ain't gonna help. I moved to 30 gauge because its MUCH easy to make the E-fuses.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

I need some advice on building a battery charger for my bank of 20 Li-ion 5000mAh 26650A
2
Replies
20
Views
2K
sheffieldyorky
U
  • Question
What type of sensor is this?
Replies
2
Views
1K
JimB
L
  • Question
Multiple Voltage inputs for Digital Input pins
Replies
6
Views
2K
schmitt trigger
S
A
  • Question
Finally got my heat sensor / controller / heating element working.. now, how can I add an on/off switch?
Replies
1
Views
532
ZipZapOuch
D
  • Question
Measure compression of objects device
Replies
5
Views
2K
Reloadron
Menu
Log in
Register
Cookies are required to use this site. You must accept them to continue using the site. Learn more…