1. yes a pcb per project basically
2. don't know
3. normal stuff pic projects, and general analog stuff mostly single layer
4. I think so I presume there are programmes ? one of the cinese pcb companies had a program to download perhaps I could print off from that ?
1. yes a pcb per project basically
2. don't know
3. normal stuff pic projects, and general analog stuff mostly single layer
4. I think so I presume there are programmes ? one of the cinese pcb companies had a program to download perhaps I could print off from that ?
There are quite a few threads on making your own PCBs with links photos and more, if you don't mind using the search function. If you already have a laser printer, I'd suggest the 'Toner-Transfer' method. I've been making my own boards this way for the past couple of years with good results.
you may perhaps getit printed else where on a laser printer andremaining process you can do at your pemises.one or two boards and project and lab works, it is better done by you. and if a design goes for bulk production, you may order out. Chemelec has rightly suggested. and HarveyH42 has told the TTS methods.
If you don't have a laser printer, you can use a photocopier instead.
Samsung do cheap laser printers if you need one, but check that toner refill kits can be obtained as a proper replacement toner cartridge can be more expensive than the printer!
The current Samsung model is the Ml-2010 and costs about £43. A toner refill costs about £7 off ebay.
First check around for a HP Laserjet IV. Often then can be found for free if you know where to look. They are excellent printers. You can get the commonly needed repair parts.
So far I have done all my boards. If you want fine traces then the special transfer paper is the way to go. Search threads for Pulsar or PulsarPro. In the UK Press&Peel blue may be easier to find. I have no experience with it.
PiulsarProFx.com sells the starch based transfer paper. As I understand it there is no one in the UK distributing it at a reasonable price if at all. That may have changed shince I last checked.
Visit the pulsarProFx website for details on the process even if you do not use their paper.
I like to use a liminator rather then a clothes iron. They make the process easy. Pulsar has a hint of faking it if you do not want to buy a laminator.
I tend to like photoresist method. U can make fine PCB's at a low cost.
For the exposure u can use a "black light" tube (the blue-ish ones used in disco)...pref a cheap one (emits more UV).
U can use a Inkjet printer (just buy some inkjet film). About the special board u can buy them or make them with a photoresist spray.
I tend to like photoresist method. U can make fine PCB's at a low cost.
For the exposure u can use a "black light" tube (the blue-ish ones used in disco)...pref a cheap one (emits more UV).
U can use a Inkjet printer (just buy some inkjet film). About the special board u can buy them or make them with a photoresist spray.
Yes I had...but i sprayed 3 layers (dry-spray-dry ...) with the spray kept at the same distance so i could get a ~2inches line. The PCB came OK.
Since then i buy coated boards (like 2$..~8x4 inches) .
Now i'm trying to get some polyvynilic alcohol, make my one coating solutions and use the "dipping" method.