motorcycle electronics / strange issue.

[busalife]

hi. i won't be able to give you all my test results / ideas etcetra this first post as they are too many and the problem started a few months ago. but i can fill in the missing gaps when required. i also have a A3 colour wiring schematic, which i can get to you somehow. i'll see if i can use photobucket for now.

the problem happened in mid winter when i was trying to fit a set of heated grips. after 2 days, the fi LIGHT CAME ON SHOWING THE CODE AS A FAULT FOR THE PRIMARY INJECTORS. all four of them. the bike is a 2008 hayabusa and i suspect the injectors are healthy. i have tried another ecm and the problem still persists.
the strange thing that happens is this; i bared the wires on part of the loom, down to the individual colours, hoping to find a bad connection/ faulty connector. so with the ignition switch on, but no ignition (due to the fault) i started fiddling with connectors wires etcetra, and the ignition system started priming itself. i could touch an injector connection, and even just bury my fingers in the open wiring loom and the ignition would cut in and out. i thought therefore that there must be some sort of static electricity saturating the wiring system. i eventually discovered that if i disconnected the connector for the front headlight / indicators that the static was cleared albeit temporarly. so i was hoping someone with electronic experience would be able to diagnose, at least what component would cause this type of failure. any more info you need please don't hesitate to ask ,,, thanks.

**broken link removed**

 

[DirtyLude]

Sounds like a loose wire, possibly a grounding issue. Electrical issues are a terrible pain in the ass to diagnose. I hate to do this, but I really suggest you just stake it to a reputable shop and have them try and fix it . You can check Hayabusa forums to see if there are similar problems reported, but it doesn't sound likely.

P.S. ZX-14's rule you.

 

[Mickster]

As Mark advises, the best solution would be to take it to a reputable shop.

However, since this problem started shortly after fitting the heated grips, it's possible that installing the grips has caused the problem. Try disconnecting every connection you have made whilst installing the grips and properly insulate any exposed wiring, then see if the problem persists.

 

[busalife]

i think marks got an iq of about 14. no biggee

 

[busalife]

However, since this problem started shortly after fitting the heated grips, it's possible that installing the grips has caused the problem. Try disconnecting every connection you have made whilst installing the grips and properly insulate any exposed wiring, then see if the problem persists.[/QUOTE]


the grips were removed soon as the trouble began, it's all been put back to standard

 

[busalife]

it would be excellent if i could get the bike sorted, but i not being too hopeful really. however, when i say - what type of component failure would cause the static, - i am thinking of diodes and stuff that make up the circuitry.

 

[crutschow]

Don't think it's any of the components or static causing the problem. Sounds more like a bad contact or connection somewhere. Finding that somewhere is the trick.

 

[DirtyLude]

i think marks got an iq of about 14. no biggee

D'oh!

{text because D'oh! is too short to post on it's own}

 

[busalife]

well whenever the static is there, the bike won't run for more than a few seconds. if i disconnect the headlight and clear the static the bike will go a bout 10mls til it fails again. running with the headlight disconnected does not help the bike run any further.

i think too it could be a faulty connector or wire. last year i tried fitting a set of grips, unbelievably the bike died, though it didn't show any injector error code. it turned out to be the gear postion switch connector. that has since been hardwired / soldered. could it be that fitting these grips are causing damage somehow. if truth be known i could have done better job when installing the grips, using a relay etcetra but i thought it wouldn't be necessary provided i got the correct 12v feed. i used the orange with green tracer wire which comes from fuse 5 and goes into the brake switches and ignition switch.