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YOU NEED:
Ferric Chloride
plastic flat bottom bowl
plastic knife (to move and remove board)
copper clad board
laser printer
eagle cad
picture paper (glossy business paper works best, photo paper worse)
an iron
a drill
Think that is it.
MAKING THE BOARD:
Print the PCB on the picture paper and cut to size
Cut copper to match paper size
Clean the copper (very important part) I use wet sand paper, you can use ajax as well
Wipe copper with denatured alcohol
put paper on copper.
heat iron on max heat
put a paper towel over paper and board.
press iron straight down center of iron on board * hold for 30 seconds *
remove iron for a couple second and repeat * straight down and hold for 30 seconds *
(that part make the paper stay in place on the copper)
now slowly iron for 30-60 seconds, make sure you get the edges of the board, they are the hard part.
After done, let it cool (turn of that iron too)
Get a cup of warm water, sometimes a drop of dish soap (soap is not required)
drop in the board. Wait 5-10 minutes.
replace warm water with board in cup, and use thumbs to rub the paper off layer at a time, sometime paper falls off (but not often)
with thumbs remove any paper film.
ETCHING THE BOARD:
You can use a plastic flat bowl or a ceramic (if ceramic you can warm the ferric chloride as that helps)
fill enough to submerge the board.
I put the board face down but make sure you move it around and the face is under the acid.
If you move it on occasion for about 15 minutes, with the plastic knife, you will see the copper is gone.
remove it, rinse it.
I use acetone to remove the toner
clean up my mess
and drill the board with my old dremel press.
That is it..
mramos1 said:(snip)
and drill the board with my old dremel press.
(snip)
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Sceadwian said:I've never tried it, but you can buy teflon sheets the thickness of paper, should work as good or better than most other methods I've heard about.
You just bought it recently? I had a very bad experience with the original model 220, which had a mechanism consisting of the sliding portion riding on a metal rod, moved by a curved slot cut into a metal bracket on the lever... is that the same one you have? I bought that one well over a year ago and it was so bad, I complained to dremel and apparently they stopped making it around that time because of similar complaints. They ended up replacing mine with the newer version when they finished it, and I have been using that one for quite some time now - it uses a rack and pinion, and although it's still largely plastic it has enough set screws and other adjustments that it can be solid enough to drill PCB's just fine. I can drill hundreds of holes with my tiniest carbide PCB drill bits without breaking any. However, someone else that I recommended the 220 to after that bought one, confirmed that it was in fact the newer version, but said it was terrible. I am kind of wondering if maybe I got some special version, rather than the model that actually went into production - if the one they're actually producing now is not as good as the one they sent me, then I'll stop recommending it to people!Rolf said:I just bought a Dremel work Station model 220. And promptly ruined several boards (stacked). This unit is a piece of junk, the downward motion is not smooth and the lateral movement is unpredictable, due to much slack. All because of poor design, no rack and pinion and cheap plastic castings.
What is the model of your unit and is it all metal with a rack and pinion?
I might buy an older model if they are any better than the 220.
technogeek said:My $50 harbor freight "tabletop" drill press will take my smallest drill bits, and works perfect. Weighs about 50# so it's nowhere near as portable as a dremel though... Lately I've tried using glossy photopaper and it worked good for a while (even made some doublesided boards) - then all of a sudden I can't get the toner to transfer! Even on high heat with lots of pressure..... So I don't know what's going on.
The one I bought was second hand (hardly used), according to seller. Dremel has now replaced it with the 220-1 as far as I can tell but they look identical, so there is a question of how much the newer model has been improved.evandude said:(snip)
You just bought it recently? I had a very bad experience with the original model 220, which had a mechanism consisting of the sliding portion riding on a metal rod, moved by a curved slot cut into a metal bracket on the lever... is that the same one you have? I bought that one well over a year ago and it was so bad, I complained to dremel and apparently they stopped making it around that time because of similar complaints. They ended up replacing mine with the newer version when they finished it, and I have been using that one for quite some time now - it uses a rack and pinion, and although it's still largely plastic it has enough set screws and other adjustments that it can be solid enough to drill PCB's just fine. I can drill hundreds of holes with my tiniest carbide PCB drill bits without breaking any. However, someone else that I recommended the 220 to after that bought one, confirmed that it was in fact the newer version, but said it was terrible. I am kind of wondering if maybe I got some special version, rather than the model that actually went into production - if the one they're actually producing now is not as good as the one they sent me, then I'll stop recommending it to people!
mramos1 said:I am sure mine is not the 220, it is probably 15-20 years old. I have the battery operated demel in it, that does not fit, wrapped in rubber straps.
But works well. No wobble at all. Only plastic are the knobs and the straps that hold the dremel. Just looked, it is a model 210. But old as heck. The base goes up rather than dremel coming down to the board.
Rolf said:Dremel has now replaced it with the 220-1 as far as I can tell but they look identical, so there is a question of how much the newer model has been improved.
Found a Sears Craftsman Model No. 572.53169 for $39.95, don't know if it was on sale. (I forgot to ask because I got to excited!) It just about the same size as the Dremel and my cheap Chinese drill motor ($19.95 - $24.95 warable speed) fits perfectly. The Sears unit has a rack and pinion and enough adjustment screws to make it operate smoothly and accurately.evandude said:Wow, I hadn't seen that one before! I just found a picture online and it appears to have gone back to the same kind of pin-in-groove mechanism that the first one used, instead of the rack-and-pinion of the (rather short-lived) version that I have...
In that case, I hold out very little hope for it...
Well, now I guess I'd better recommend something better:
PZ541 Vertical Drill Stand from minicrafttools.com
That is what I bought when my first dremel model 220 turned out to be junk, before they had sent me a new one - it's completely metal, rack and pinion, and it works very well. It's got a big clamp that goes around the main body of the dremel, but it should be able to fit a wider variety of tools this way. it fit my regular 2-speed dremel perfectly. It's also very small compared to the model 220.
i too use the 50$ HF drill press and find it ok. i'm also very limited in space with room for one machine only so i'm switching from miter saw/table saw/dril pres depending with what i need to work for the moment while the rest live on the shelf.technogeek said:My $50 harbor freight "tabletop" drill press will take my smallest drill bits, and works perfect. Weighs about 50# so it's nowhere near as portable as a dremel though... .
tankist80 said:for what is worth - the bearings in dremel more designed for side force (as if sharpening something, or using micro cutoff tool), making it very lousy drill.
IMO dremel is a half-ass tool altogether which is not good at anything it does. the only stron point of it is the compactness.
i too use the 50$ HF drill press and find it ok. i'm also very limited in space with room for one machine only so i'm switching from miter saw/table saw/dril pres depending with what i need to work for the moment while the rest live on the shelf.