New Way For making PCBs.

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Ayne

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I have some thing big in my tiny brain.
Can we use any type of printer to print traces direct onto copper coated sheet???

Which types of motor used in bubbleJet printers???
 
well, it's not a new idea. and, it's not so simple. bubblejet printers use waterbased ink which is water soluable. Inkjets are similar. Epson uses a piezo technology that doesn't require water based ink. However, the ink beads up on the copper so it causes gaps. Some of the people on the Yahoo home brew PCB group have had some limited success but it doesn't seem to be quite ready for prime-time.
 
I've read a few articles about converting old dot matrix printers into CNC routers for PCBs, but sounded like a lot of work, and takes about as much time to do a board with chemicals.
 
Ayne said:
Can we use any type of printer to print traces direct onto copper coated sheet???
QUOTE]

Copper coated sheet of what?, Paper, plastic?
What thickness?
 
Ayne said:
I have some thing big in my tiny brain.
Can we use any type of printer to print traces direct onto copper coated sheet???

Which types of motor used in bubbleJet printers???

I thinks your idea is impossible . it is so harmful for your printer.
I usually print my PCB in the pager ,and use electric iron to make the PCB board .It has high quality .
It is not necessary to do like that .I think that it so complicated
 
Follow the link first before you say "impossible". It's quite possible but there is no off the shelf solution. You have to hack up an epson printer. It's definitely for the tinkerer.
 
I spent last night reading about homebrew PCB and Epson printers, even bought one for $5USD on e-bay.

There are UV-curable inks that are waterproof and have solubilities compatible with inkjet components, but they are extremely expensive, even when compared to Epson cartridges ($200 for 2 oz sample packs). Are you familiar with anyone using such inks for hobbyists? John
 
you should go visit the yahoo group. that is where the guys that did that page hang out. I believe there were some problems with uv curable but didn't pay that close attention.
 
philba said:
Follow the link first before you say "impossible". It's quite possible but there is no off the shelf solution. You have to hack up an epson printer. It's definitely for the tinkerer.

It certainly 'could' be done commercially (although not using old Epson printers), ink jet printing is sprayed directly onto boxes passing along conveyor belts - probably six inches away?.
 
philba said:
you should go visit the yahoo group. that is where the guys that did that page hang out. I believe there were some problems with uv curable but didn't pay that close attention.

The reference in my post was to the yahoo Homebrew_PCBs site as the place where I got the information. Unfortunately, I was not completely clear on that point.

It seems that group's focus on UV curable ink was to use UV LEDs essentially to mill the traces, and you are correct, there were problems. The current fad is to heat fix Epson-compatible yellow ink, which is preferred to other colors, before etching. Apparently, it sticks quite well, but there are also indications that not everyone has had the same luck (as always) and the baking temperature seems to be critical.

The OP question about printing directly on a bare PCB is apparently and relatively easily solved by using the Epson inkjet printer heads.

My question was whether anyone on this forum had experience with applying a UV curable ink -- such as a negative or positive resist of suitably low viscosity --, and then exposing the whole board to UV to cure it. I did not find any references to that hypothetical process on the yahoo forum using its search function. But again, not all of the 16000 posts may be accessible by that function.

As a follow-up question, has anyone used the DuPont Riston or other brand negative-resist films to make their own boards. John
 
yeah, the yahoo group search function really really sucks. You can get to all the entries but it is extremely tedious. It will search a number of postings (a couple hundred, iirc) and you then have to press next to search the next batch of postings. It really reduces the value of a forum.

The "direct print PCBs" discussion has gone back at least 2 years and I recall some discussion of uv cure inks (not UV photo plotted) for direct print a while back. I could be mis-remembering, though.

Never done it but think and tinker have a fair amount of info on using dry film, I don't know if it's riston. https://www.thinktink.com/stack/volumes/voli/store/catalog.htm
I wish they sold smaller quantities as I'd like to try it.
 
What about mixing the two methods? You could print onto some photoresist board with the bubble jet then UV expose it and develop it. There again I don't see how this would be any better than the traditional UV process.
 
Hero999 said:
What about mixing the two methods?

That is exactly what I am going to try when I get my Epson. For just a few boards, why bother with printing to film, then exposing to UV? The advantages of direct print on the resist? Well, the glass plate that is used to hold the transparency may block a good portion of the UV that is most important to the photoconversion process. Second, it avoids one step; although, it does require a specially modified printer. The cost of the transparency film is insignificant. Third, light bleed around the printed pattern should be a little less if it is printed directly on the resist rather than on a film that is pressed ink-side against the board. Fourth, and maybe most important, it's also fun to tinker.

As major disadvantage of direct print? The ink may bead up on the resist surface and not flow out to give nice lines. That is probably what will kill the idea.

The photonegative-resist film is supposed to give superb results and is used commercially, which is probably why it is only available in large amounts. I did not find any discussions about how well it works with our hobbyist laminators. There are comments on commercial sites about using crowned rollers, etc., which leads me to have a little concern. Since it's a film, one might be able to print on it directly in an unmodified inkjet, then laminate, expose to light, and develop. If anyone knows a source for small amounts, I would like try it. John
 
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