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Newbie wants to repair abandoned Yamaha RX-V583

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lanimac

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Hello! As stated, I would like to fix this AVR that someone gave me because it isn't working, I don't really want to see it tossed out and I have the sense that it might not be a complicated fix, I'll explain why below. I'll write up what I know and post some pictures. :)

When I drove it home, it actually worked fine after not working previously at their house. This gives me the impression that something is loose and was jiggered back into place during the drive, shortly after that it jiggered back out I guess, because it doesn't work any more. I did the (info+tone control + power) to get it to reboot and give me some error codes, they're a bit different each time. It also seems to go into some sort of debugging mode after that initial error code which I can switch though the menu, some of them seem to check and return either OK or NG, which I've interpreted as NO GOOD since the text is also accompanied by some red squiggles.

I did find the manual for this model but there doesn't seem to be much useful information for this level of debugging in there, so I assume there's some other sort of technical schematics online somewhere but I can't seem to find them. Maybe you have to be a Yamaha tech to get those, not sure how it works. Anyway,

Error code is PS1 PRT: 130, the numbers can range between that and 141 or so. I seen on another forum that PS1 is power supply, PRT is protect, it's in some sort of protection mode from some electrical short or something, and then 130 has to do with the voltage that is out of whack.

Here's some pictures, there is nothing obvious in terms of something having melted, corroded, disconnected, etc.

If someone has a suggestion as where to start, that would be great. If you have instructions, offer them up like you're talking to a newbie.
Cheers!

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I'd change the five (seven?) pairs of output transistors (the large ones mounted to the heat sink below the main circuit board). They are cheap and sometimes only fail when warm so, I'd just change the all as a first attempt. You can go through and try to diagnose which ones are bad but kind of hard when failure is intermittent as you show.
 
Hey thank! Just to double check I've got the right thing from your description, they look like this and are held on with one big screw in the middle? You can see just one in the second image from the top, below the blue wire going to the brown board?

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Hey thank! Just to double check I've got the right thing from your description, they look like this and are held on with one big screw in the middle? You can see just one in the second image from the top, below the blue wire going to the brown board?

View attachment 143064
Yes, check the datasheets. There is a pair for each output channel - one NPN and one PNP. The L and R may be bigger or more expensive than the rear surround channels. Check the part numbers on all before ordering.
 
Also, the bottom "porthole" of the chassis usually comes off to let you desolder them without taking the whole thing apart.
 
I'd change the five (seven?) pairs of output transistors (the large ones mounted to the heat sink below the main circuit board). They are cheap and sometimes only fail when warm so, I'd just change the all as a first attempt. You can go through and try to diagnose which ones are bad but kind of hard when failure is intermittent as you show.
Randomly changing components is a VERY bad idea - and more likely to cause further problems than cure anything.

Finding replacement transistors could also be an issue, as output transistors are commonly faked by China, and it's difficult to get actual proper working ones.

A protection fault most likely means that ONE of the channels is faulty, you need to find which one, and repair that one - easily found with a simple voltage test on the outputs before the relay. Find which one, work on that.

As it worked for a while after he got it home, then a simple dry joint seems most likely, and checking round the output stages visually for dry joints (particularly on the output transistors - or anything else 'large'). I repaired quite a lot of surround sound amps that just had dry joints.
 
Randomly changing components is a VERY bad idea - and more likely to cause further problems than cure anything.
I agree, too many variables changed at once is a bit impossible to handle.

then a simple dry joint seems most likely
This is when solder that hasn't bonded well pops off over time?


Thanks, good info. I ordered a entry level soldering kit and multi-meter a few days ago. :)
 
I agree, too many variables changed at once is a bit impossible to handle.


This is when solder that hasn't bonded well pops off over time?


Thanks, good info. I ordered a entry level soldering kit and multi-meter a few days ago. :)

Yes, it can mostly be found by a visual inspection - larger parts (such as the output transistors, emitter resistors etc.) are more prone to it.
 
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