Looks like your batteries need charging. Can you check each one individually? They are 18650 type batteries which are LiPo and should read between 3.2 (debatable) and 4.2V each.
Your pictures don't show any power input connector to charge the batteries. Do you have to remove the batteries from the unit to charge them ? I am guessing that the circuit board on top of the battery is a BMS module. In post #9 you said that the output of the battery was OK. Where did you measure the voltage (Directly on the battery terminals, the output from the BMS module or at the plug that connects to CON3 on the main circuit board.) and what was the voltage reading ?
Looks like your batteries need charging. Can you check each one individually? They are 18650 type batteries which are LiPo and should read between 3.2 (debatable) and 4.2V each.
Your pictures don't show any power input connector to charge the batteries. Do you have to remove the batteries from the unit to charge them ? I am guessing that the circuit board on top of the battery is a BMS module. In post #9 you said that the output of the battery was OK. Where did you measure the voltage (Directly on the battery terminals, the output from the BMS module or at the plug that connects to CON3 on the main circuit board.) and what was the voltage reading ?
The same connection for charging and use batteries. Yes! Measured directly on battery terminals. out put from BMS module is nothhing. Even if I plug con2 (main connection from the power adaptor) to the board then not getting any voltage and if I try removing it get 23-24 DC reading.
You might try applying a voltage directly to the output of the BMS, that often resets it if charging doesn't. We usually use a bench PSU, with the current set low - as there's no need for any high current.
We change a LOT of faulty batteries, and it's quite common for them not to work afterwards until you reset the BMS.
You might try applying a voltage directly to the output of the BMS, that often resets it if charging doesn't. We usually use a bench PSU, with the current set low - as there's no need for any high current.
We change a LOT of faulty batteries, and it's quite common for them not to work afterwards until you reset the BMS.
From your picture in post #19 CON2 seems to be linked to what looks like it might be the power input connector.
Am I correct about this ? If I am correct then measure the voltage between the pins of CON2 with it connected to the board and with the power supply plugged in to the input socket.
You have still not commented on the bare wire in post #5 and you have not posted a picture of the etch side of the circuit board.
From your picture in post #19 CON2 seems to be linked to what looks like it might be the power input connector.
Am I correct about this ? If I am correct then measure the voltage between the pins of CON2 with it connected to the board and with the power supply plugged in to the input socket.
You have still not commented on the bare wire in post #5 and you have not posted a picture of the etch side of the circuit board.
Yes. Con2 is connected to the power input connector. No power voltage between the pins of con2 if connected to the board. But when I removed it from pins then I'm getting 21-22V Dc. The bare wire was of battery connection which I had connected. Please see post#25.
It looks like something is shorting out the power supply rails. Trace out the schematic of the board and so we can try to work out what may be causing the short. I think all the active components must be on the etch side of the board. Post the schematic when you have traced it out together with the part numbers of ALL the ICs diodes and transistors.
It looks like something is shorting out the power supply rails. Trace out the schematic of the board and so we can try to work out what may be causing the short. I think all the active components must be on the etch side of the board. Post the schematic when you have traced it out together with the part numbers of ALL the ICs diodes and transistors.
On you picture it looks like D1 is cracked. (Can you confirm that this is the case or is it just a reflection or something on the picture.) I think D1 provides shunt mode reverse polarity protection. If you have reversed the polarity of the battery or the power supply there is a good chance that this has caused it to fail short circuit. (When you post the requested schematic and part numbers of the transistors and ICs it will show if my theory is correct.) Measure the resistance of D1 using the lowest resistance range on your meter with both polarities of the test probes then do the same test using the diode test range on your meter. report the results.
C7 Soldering (+ pin) looks poor and ZW1, something about this glass
diode or zener also does not look right at this camera angle.
And odd looking 8 pin component next to cracked cap, lower left two pins soldered
together, did that occur due to heating....? Other side of board in that location show
signs of excessive heating ?
I think the two 8 pin devices T1 and T2 are power mosfets.The three and 4four pins connected together will be the source and drain. The remaining pin will be the gate. (I have used some mosfets with a similar pinout.)
On you picture it looks like D1 is cracked. (Can you confirm that this is the case or is it just a reflection or something on the picture.) I think D1 provides shunt mode reverse polarity protection. If you have reversed the polarity of the battery or the power supply there is a good chance that this has caused it to fail short circuit. (When you post the requested schematic and part numbers of the transistors and ICs it will show if my theory is correct.) Measure the resistance of D1 using the lowest resistance range on your meter with both polarities of the test probes then do the same test using the diode test range on your meter. report the results.