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Opto Interupter testing?

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HarveyH42

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I have a japanese slot machine, no schematics, don't read (or speak) japanese, and no specs or part number.

I've been restoring this machine and converting it to quarters for a few weeks, but has never seem to count payouts, just empties the hopper and gives an error code. At first I thought it was not enough coins, but it does the same when I try to cash out even one credit.

The coins are pushed against a springload post, which moves an arm between the U shaped opto interupter. This portion is working fine, so the counting problem must be the sensor, since the computer gives an error after spitting out 20 or so coins (timer I'd guess).

Schematics for these machines must be rare, have found one for any slot machine. Only found one site sellin this particular machine for $299. So, I'm on my own, and only a basic understanding of this part.

The opto is soldered to a small PCB with a single resistor and a 3 pin connector. The voltage isn't know, but figure 5 volts, its just an IRLED and Photodiode, right? Guessing the LED is the half running through the resistor.

I would like to test the detector and emitter without too much risk of damage, as it might be tough to replace. So far my repairs and modifications have been transparent, and hope to keep it clean. This thing is almost complete. Just this hopper problem and one button needs replaced on the front.
 
If you can see the LED emitter, use a digital cam to look at it - you should see the IR in the display.

The photo transistor probably has the emitter to gnd and the collector pulled high. measuring between collector and emitter should show Vcc (or what ever you call positive supply voltage) when interrupted and between 0 and about .2V (Vcesat) when not interrupted.

If you suspect a bad LED you could try illuminating the slot with another IR LED. even if it's not matched, you should see something.
 
I hooked the detector up to the osciloscope, applied power to the emitter and got no response. Used the TV remote got spikes while pressing buttons. Tried several irLEDs, but very little response.

Looks like I'll need to replace it. The other two machines have different setups, the optos are shorter/smaller not a goot fit. Guess I need to make some measurements and do a little shopping. Not many choices at my usual surplus sites, looks like Digikey or something.
 
Hmm, the detector is good if it's responding to the tv remote (good idea, btw). I'd gently desolder the part and test the led. check out mouser - yo can browse their catalog on-line and their prices are usually better than digikey.
 
Wish the thing had a part number. Doubtful its on the pin side, but going to pull it after work today (although I should be making some huricane preperations just incase...). Hopefully I can search using the measurements I make, not a lot of room to play with in there. I expect the shipping to be way more than the part itself, kind of hate that.
 
everlight, fairchild and vishay have a number of them. the mouser catalog has some measurements.

if you opt for usps first class delivery and it weighs less than a pound, it will be fairly cheap ($3-5). time to stock up on other stuff!
 
Took a quick look around mouser before work. Wasn't looking too good, but might have missed something. Only saw one brand Optetech (something like that), no pictures, minimal specs, and few data sheets. Would need to go to the manufacturers website to find a part number first. At work I thought up a scheme that might work with one of the smaller ones. A double layer of perfboard should raise it up high enough, and I think the gap is wide enough to pass the arm through. Rather get the right part, least I have a back up plan.
 
Thanks for links. Don't think I'll need them though. When I was desoldering it, found out it was a plastic cover over two right angle components. They look exactly the same (clear plastic rectangles, two leads, small bump for a lens). Even internally, they appear the same. Didn't occur to me at the time, but after swapping out the emmiter, and putting all back together, but thinking they just might be. I've got about 20 of those irLEDs, have see if they work as detectors too.

Anyway, still didn't work. Pulled it back out, and the emitter doesn't seem to be working. The resistor on the board is 820 ohms. If the LED is 1.7 volts 30 mA, wonder what supply voltage I'm looking at, its 1/8 watt. Enough frustration for today, and tomorrow we should be in the middle of a tropical storm/huricane.

Might be time to trace some wires and see how the signal is conditioned before going to the computer.
 
Just hooked up one of those irLEDs to the Oscilloscope, tested with the TV remote like I did before, works the same. Pretty damn cool. Now I can experiment without taking that hopper apart to get to that module. Guess I'll need to follow some wire and see what else is going on. More like a weekend thing.
 
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