Rolf said:I didn't like Eagle at all... finally found PCB123 which is much more user friendly, IMHO. It is a free download.
I found pcb123 to be very weak and, worse, it locks you into the PCB manufacturer. Most of the "friendly, easy" PCB packages are just too lightweight. The libraries are meager and they really aren't all that friendly.Rolf said:I didn't like Eagle at all... finally found PCB123 which is much more user friendly, IMHO. It is a free download.
philba said:{snip}I found pcb123 to be very weak and, worse, it locks you into the PCB manufacturer. Most of the "friendly, easy" PCB packages are just too lightweight. The libraries are meager and they really aren't all that friendly. {snip{QUOTE]
I should probably have stated, in my previous post, that I only use PBC123 as a CAD program for laying out PCB manually. And It was from that standpoint I recommended its use. Most generally used components are in one of the many libraries, if not, the pads can easily be drawn manually for two and three lead items.
But I guess it boils down to; just use what you like.
nye said:how abt express PCB???they hav all the pars in their library, and u can print the layout or export it in the form of a Bitmap.... is there a big difference in surface mounting components??u jus solder them so tht no holes are required right??is it very complicated??
Clean the board thoroughly before you do anything to it. I use a special metal work polishing block but an old rag and metal polish should work.nye said:sorry but let me jus run thro the toner transfer process...i prepare the layout with either Eagle or Express PCB...then i print it using a laser printer on the toner side of the toner paper...then i place the toner paper with the printed/toner side on the board, and then iron over it with an iron..then i remove the paper,
I prefer the non-staining etching solution but I can't remmber the name at the moment.nye said:and will c the toner stuck to the board...then i etch it( probably with Ferric Chloride) and then after that, how do i wash of the toner??and then when i wash of the toner is it ready for use?? or do i have to tin the tracks, or varnish the board or anything like tht??
I personally use scotch-brite pads, and then wipe the dust off with a paper towel and rubbing alcohol afterward.Hero999 said:Clean the board thoroughly before you do anything to it. I use a special metal work polishing block but an old rag and metal polish should work.
You need a special kind of paper, you can either waste loads of money buying the realy expensive Press 'n Peel stuff or use magazine paper. After you've ironed the paper to the board, you need to soak it in cold water to remove it, this takes 5 to 20 miniutes.
ammonium persulfate is one that I have used, it's water clear when fresh and turns translucent blue (looks like windex) as it is used. I'm not a huge fan of it because it feels like I get very little use out of it before it is 'spent' and I need to mix up a fresh batch, and it is much more sensitive to temperature than, for example, ferric chloride... at room temperature the etching time is ridiculously long (once it took like an hour), and even mixing it with boiling water and setting the tray in a larger tray full of boiling water to keep it hotter for longer, it still takes longer than I would like. But, it is nice to be able to clearly see the etching progress, and not have to worry about staining.I prefer the non-staining etching solution but I can't remmber the name at the moment.
philba said:When the etchant cools, the CuCl drops out of solution and you can decant it to prolong the etchant's life. The crystals are kind of cool looking.
philba said:I've played with CuCl etchant (h2o2 + hydrochloric acid) and had nothing but trouble with it. it is a very attractive etchant in, as you say, it can theoretically last for ever. but never got a decent etch with out adding 30% h2o2 which turned out to be not cheap at all in my neck of the woods.
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