Phase Shift Oscillator Circuit

[ejdwin]

Hey everyone! I've made a phase shift oscillator circuit on NI Multisim (photo attached), but don't quite know how to translate that to a breadboard (build this circuit on a breadboard). I was wondering if any of ya'll would be able to help me by providing a breadboard diagram on how to make it. Thanks heaps!

 

[danadak]

Prtottyping :

Solderless breadboard https://www.amazon.com/solderless-breadboard/s?k=solderless+breadboard

Manhatten Style Prototyping :

Getting Ugly, Dead Bugs, And Going To Manhattan

Back in the 1980s I was a budding electronics geek working in a TV repair shop. I spent most of my time lugging TVs to and from customers, but I did get a little bench time in. By then new TVs were…

hackaday.com

Regards, Dana.

 

[AnalogKid]

Is a solderless proto-board an option, or do the parts have to be soldered to something?

ak

 

[Nigel Goodwin]

Is a solderless proto-board an option, or do the parts have to be soldered to something?

ak

It's fine for a simple audio oscillator, although I don't consider them reliable enough to use them.

 

[crutschow]

For permanent construction of such a low frequency circuit, perfboard (example below) is a good option.
You generally layout the components to minimize wire lengths and crossovers between parts.

Be sure to add 100nF ceramic decoupling capacitors from the plus and minus power pins on the op amp directly to ground.

 

[ejdwin]

Is a solderless proto-board an option, or do the parts have to be soldered to something?

ak

Yeah I'm meant to prototype the circuit on a solderless breadboard and then test the output on an oscilloscope, Just not sure how to connect the components on the breadboard that's all

 

[crutschow]

Just not sure how to connect the components on the breadboard that's all

Not sure I understand your problem(?).
You just connect all the nodes as shown on the schematic.

 

[danadak]

Regards, Dana.

 

[ejdwin]

Not sure I understand your problem(?).
You just connect all the nodes as shown on the schematic.

Hey crutschow,
I actually haven't had experience with assembling components on a breadboard, not entirely sure how to build the circuit (connect the nodes) on the breadboard. Hence why I was wondering if someone could help me (a tinkercad/breadboard diagram with all the components on it).
Regards,

 

[danadak]

Go to youtube and enter this search text "how to breadboard", lots of
videos.

Regards, Dana.

 

[Tony Stewart]

This shows how to use short AWG 24 wires as jumpers. Cut To proper length.

Tutorial 1: Building a Circuit on Breadboard for Beginners in Electronics

Beginners Tutorial 1: Building a Circuit on Breadboard - how to build a simple and easy circuit on breadboard for beginners in electronics. Learn to use a LED and resistor.

startingelectronics.org

 

[crutschow]

not entirely sure how to build the circuit (connect the nodes) on the breadboard.

Each vertical row of socket holes (with the breadboard long way horizontal) and the long horizontal rows are connected together (as shown by the red highlights in Tony's post.
The vertical connections are for the component connections, and the horizonal rows are used to carry the power and ground rails.
So you plug the components into the holes to connect the parts together, using short jumper wires for the connections that can't be done by the on-board hole connections.

 

[audioguru]

I never seen an LM358H so I thought it is an new improvement like the new H version of the TL08xH opamps.
No, it is an LM358 in an antique metal can with its leads in a circle.

 

[AnalogKid]

metal can with its leads in a circle.

As God intended.

ak

 

[rjenkinsgb]

There is nothing weird with TO-5 can opamps!

 

[rjenkinsgb]

OK, as I've contributed to the off topic stuff, it's only fair I answer the OP

His circuit, less the output level pot, on a solderless breadboard;

Red is +15V connected to the very top + bus strip, Green is 0V, connected to both inner busbars, though the upper one was not needed, and Blue is -15V connected to the very bottom - bus strip.

White wires are signal connections & the two twisted wires are the pot.

We only have five band resistors; the values are as in the diagram with the exception of substituting 47K for the 50K.

Multiple photos from different angles, to try and make sure the wire locations can all be seen.. It's at dual-in-line LM358 as that's the only type I have of those.

ps. The 358 is a DUAL opamp, with just one section used in this circuit..

Overall view, powered up with the scope lead connected:

Views from other angles:

And the output waveform. The pot is at around 15K for this; higher values give higher amplitude and more distortion, lower values reduce the level further:

 

[AnalogKid]

Clear, framed, multi-angle photos - check. However,

1. Power supply decoupling.

2. Unused opamp termination.

They are not in the OP's schematic, so you answered the question that was asked. But . . .

ak

 

[audioguru]

At the very high output of 24V p-p the crossover distortion of the LM358 can barely be seen. It will be obvious at low levels.
I do not know why the output peaks are crumpled.
At such a high output level the waveform will be triangular above 2kHz due to the poor slew rate of the LM358.

 

[rjenkinsgb]

1. Power supply decoupling.

2. Unused opamp termination.

Absolutely - but I did not want to confuse anything with additional components.

The PSU has good decoupling & it's easy to plug in a couple of capacitors across the top and bottom power busses. That's one of the reasons I set the breadboard up like that, with the ground linked to the inner two, as I usually add decoupling for each power bus.

I did also stress that the 358 was a dual opamp, with the other half unused. A simple opamp would be a far better choice. It's a bipolar one so it's not likely to be harmed by open inputs.