Please I need help building a circuit

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oldman23

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Hi Everyone,
I am electronics illiterate for starters and I Need help to build a circuit or to contract it out. Here is the complete background of what I am doing.
I am a 1/24th scale model car builder and I have wired in head and tail lights using micro incandescent bulbs 1.2mm in parallel and using a 1.5 v battery with no problems.
PROBLEM 1 I am building a model of my 62 Chevy Impala SS and I have a motor out of a pager that I installed inside the model motor and it is actuated by either pushing the gas pedal or moving the carb linkage. I hooked it up to an adjustable resistor so the motor speeds up and slows down with the throttle. If someone has a better Idea please tell me.
THE MAIN PROBLEM I NEED HELP WITH. I need the turn signals and the brake lights to work off the same bulb if possible. I built a simple contact switch inside the steering column using the center shaft as ground and 2 separate contacts in the outer column for left or right activation. I also have a sub miniature momentary switch under the dash so when the brake peddle is pushed I have contact for the brakes.
I have very limited amount of space to hide things in and I am hoping to use some Sony lithium coin cells stacked together to power the circuit I need. Either some CR-2450's 3 vdc @500mA , (24mm dia x 5mm thick) or CR-1620's 150mA, (16mm dia x 5mm thick). I'm using one yellow bulb for each side in the front and 3 red bulbs for each side in the rear.For a total of 6 leds for the rear and 2 Leds for the front. I do not need emergency flashers so only one side will need to blink at a time. I have a dozen or so of micro-mini 1.5 mm axial leds in red, and yellow along with 33 ohm resistors and 470 ohm resistors, NOW I AM LOST.
I need a very small circuit using Surface Mount Technology and not over 3/4 of an inch square to control the Leds. I will be using 32 Gage wire to hook the board to the Leds, I can hide that wire pretty easily. The Batteries will be hidden elsewhere. I will be mounting the red leds next to the incandescent bulbs that I use for the taillights so the Leds will over power them when on and also because of lack of room The taillight len's are only .135 Dia. I was told by using diodes it is possible to isolate the circuit so it can share the ground with both turn signals and also use diodes so the brake lights will work off the same circuit but before the blinker. I have no clue if this is right so Please tell me if this is correct. If I can use the brake lights and turn signals seperatly off the same board and bulbs I'll be happy. The trunk of the model opens so I need to hide the circuit board behind the seats that is why I need it designed using surface mount devices. Hopefully this model will be entered in State and National model shows. The turn signals and brake lights will only be on for less than one hour per show and only used for demonstrations. Power loss is no problem but dependability is. I have plenty of batteries. Also everyone talks about wiring Leds in series, Can they be wired in parallel? I wired my head lights and all six taillights in parallel and hooked them to one AAA battery with no resistors and they stayed lit up for 27 hours before dimming out but those are Incandescent bulbs not Leds I have pictures of the taillight housings and trunk area if they are needed. I don't expect something for nothing Please help me.
You can email me directly at ernie-p@cox.net or call me at 623-640-4059 Pacific mountain time. I live in Arizona USA
 
Hi there,

So basically you need someone to build the circuit board as well as design the
circuit too, and i guess ship it to you?
 
He did say he was willing to contract it out.

If the motor only goes in one direction there is no need for an
H-Bridge.
 
No, I am willing to build it if someone can help me design it using basic English or if someone is willing to etch the circuit on a small board I'm willing to compensate them for their work. I looked at some circuit drawings and they do most of what I need but not everything. The motor runs good the way it is and I can control the speed I just thought someone might have a better way of doing it. My concern is the lights. I have a bunch of parts to work with I just don't know if they are right. 33 ohm SMD resistors. 100 ohm SMD resistors, 470 ohm SMD resistors, 1k SMD resistors, SA555 SMD timers,TLC 556 SMD Dual timers, NE556 SMD IC, 22uF 10V SMD Ceramic capacitors, 100uF 6V SMD tantalum capacitors and I can solder. I do not have a copper board or any way of etching it but I could figure out something. I can get 3"x 4"x 1/16 single sided copper clad board for $1.51 so that leaves etching it, and with someones help telling me what I need, I am sure I can pick it up at radio shack or somewhere. I'll be using 6 SMD Brilliant red LEDs HP type HLMP-BG11 3V for the rear lights 3 per side and 2 T1 3v 3mm bright yellow LEDs for the front. I would like to use Sony Lithium cr2450 coin batteries stacked because I can hide them in the spare tire. If I need more or differant parts I have a wharehouse down the road from me so that is no problem Thanks for your help AND YOUR LAUGHTER
 
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Hi again,

Let me see if i have this right so far...

You have a switch for the blinker, and another switch for the brake.
You want the LEDs to blink as a car would for blinkers and the same
(rear only) LEDs to act as brake lights.
Your only source of power for the LEDs is two coin cells that are 1.5v
each, for a total of 3v.
The circuit can only be 0.75 inch square at the base.

Questions:
1. The circuit can only be 0.75 by 0.75 at the base, but how high can it be?
2. Do all the LEDs have to use 20ma or is 10ma or 5ma ok to make them
bright enough?
3. Is a microcontroller solution acceptable?
4. Can two lithium cells (3v each) be used instead of the 1.5 coin cells?
And, any chance a cell phone sized Li-ion cell can be used for power instead?
5. Is the blinker switch a double throw type with center off?
 
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Hi MrAl,
When I said I have a switch for the turn signals it is a simple contact switch. The steering column consists of 3 pieces the outer column the inner column and the steering shaft. The outside of the steering column has slot cut in it and wire epoxied to each side and insulated from the column itself. the inside column has a wire soldered to it from the (yet to be built) board. The inside column has a .020 dia. attached to it and used as the turn signal lever.
when you push the lever up it contacts the insulated wire on the outer column and the lights blink, the same if you move the lever down. Does this help on the switch or did I confuse you more? For the brake lights I have a momentary switch that measures 1.1mm x 1.1 mm or roughly .040 square mounted under the dash so when you push the pedal the switch closes. For the rear of the car I'm using 6 surface mount leds, 3 per side rated at 3v and measuring 3mm x 2mm x 1mm or roughly .118 x.056 x.040inches. This is printed on the package "These are tiny clear case micro LEDs which light up a brilliant red at 3VDC 15mA" I tested one just hooked to a 3v battery and that is the brightness I need. I am using Lithium coin cell batteries and I can stack more than two, because I can hide them in the spare tire. I don't have room for cell phone batteries or 3v lithium camera batteries. the front to yellow Leds are also 3 volt but are T1 3mm Dia. Manufactured by Liteon. I don't have any height to give that is why I need the circuit drawn up for all surface mount devices. I only have .087" height to play with. I have no clue what a micro controller is or how big it is or how they work.
Thanks again MrAl and I hope I clarified some things if not let me know. I have most of the parts needed I think except for the diodes needed to isolate the brake lights from the rear turn signals.
 
Hi again,


So when you move the lever up it contacts a wire which closes the circuit
to start the left blinker LED blinking, and when you move the level down it
contacts a different wire to start the right blinker blinking?

The brake switch is just an SPST switch then?

Seems to me all you need is a circuit that blinks an LED, and the lever
switch will decide which LED gets blinked, with an extra input to force
both LEDs to come on constantly (brake).

You only have 0.087 inch clearance on top of the circuit board?
That's less than one tenth of any inch right? (less than 0.1 inch)

Sound right?

Would it be possible to add some 'feature' to the car that adds
a little more space, like a luggage rack with luggage on top?

Any chance you can post a few pictures of the car the way it is
now? This would help a lot too.
 

Hi MrAl the answer to your first 5 questions is Correct.
I would love to post some pictures but most of the car is broke down into sub assemblies an put in plastic bags. I will go threw everything again and see where I can gather some more room. I'll post it as soon as I have it done.
Thank you for your help
 
Hi again,


Did you make any progress yet or do you still need some ideas?
 
I still need help

Hi again,


Did you make any progress yet or do you still need some ideas?

Hi MrAl
I've made some progress just I still need help drawing the circuit, and what components I need to build the blinking circuit. Like I said I have allot of the goodies already Except for the diodes needed to isolate the blinking circuit from the brake lights. This is a list of what I have.
These are all surface mount.
33 ohm resistors
100 ohm resistors
470 ohm resistors
1k ohm resistors
22 uf 10 volt ceramic capacitors
100 uf 6 volt tantalum capacitors
TI-701A Sa555 timers
6 pcs 3 volt micro mini SMD red Leds .75mAH
2 pcs yellow T1 3mm Leds 15mAh
1 pc 1/16 thick copperclad 3" x 3"
1pc 2" x 2" smartboard for SMD's Photo included
3 volt lithium coin batteries rated at 500 mAH
I do not know what else I need or if the values of the resistors are right. also where is pin one located on the SA555 ? it has a white stripe on one side but other then that I have no clue. I really need to know What I need to complete this project and how it is laid out and connected.
in other words I need a schematic drawn out in as simple as possible layman's terms. Can you help me with this?
Thank You for all your time on this. I really know nothing about electronics but I do know a little about machine electrical so at least I can solder and I have the small tools needed for SMD work
Thank you very much your help is appreciated
 

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you need help for building an circuit,well ask to a person who know about building circuit or search through internet there are lot of site that it can help it to you,



___________________
Great thing to know about **broken link removed**.
Well I am getting plenty of help here so why don't you go on internet and find help with english
 


Hi again,


It sounds like you would like to use a SM 555 timer to get the blink
rate for the LED. I see you have some resistors, but are you aware
that you probably need some higher values too in order to get
roughly a 1Hz blink rate typical of an automobile?

Yes, i can draw you a schematic, but as i was saying, you may need
a few other parts other than what you have already.

How many 555 timer chips do you have, and is the exact part number
SA555 made by Texas Instruments?
 
Hi Again MrAl
The actual part numbers are SA555 By T.I. and I have 10 of them. the resistors I have 20 each and the capacitors I have 5 each. Getting more parts with higher values is easy I only pay $1.00 for 20 resistors and the SA555's are only .49 cents each. I know I will need some diodes too but I don't know what kind or the values. Thank you for everything
 
Hi again,


Here is a rough layout so far.
The diodes are Schottky's if you want this to fly with 3v input,
and the red LEDs have to be the 1.7 to 1.8v type. You may
want to check that your LEDs can run off of a 3v battery
with a single 100 ohm resistor in series. See if the brightness
is acceptable.

In this drawing, you'll note that there is a power switch. If this
is not acceptable we'll have to go with another technique but
that will require more parts.

Check it out. Note the timing resistors and cap are not shown yet.
 

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MrAl
So far it looks good. I know it is just a rough drawing but I will need the pin layout for the SA555's and a Key to the parts. Like I say I'm dumber than than Dumb can be when it comes to reading a schematic. I can understand most of what you have so far but d1 &d2 placement is still confusing to me.
Thank You
By the way The Led's are rated at 3volt but can I stack the batteries for 6v or 9volt to keep the red Led's at the 3volt brightness? and if I can what resistors do i need. Another way I thought is if I hook the 3 led's in series what resistors do I need and do I need one resistor per bulb? I think the voltage would be 9 volts total, Am I correct?
 
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Hi again,


I looked up the data sheet and found that the 555's you have require
at least 5v anyway, so that means at least 2 cells in series (for 6v
total). If you want to go with 9v that's ok too, but the resistor
values will be different.

If you have 3v LEDs then you can not connect them in series.
You would have to connect one resistor per LED and parallel
those.

Here's an updated drawing with more component values and
showing the resistors connected in parallel, each with their
own resistor.
Yes, the preferred method to connect LEDs is one resistor
per LED.

The diode connections are such that the two cathode (band)
ends go to the brake switch, and each anode goes to a different
LED. If you have any doubts, do a quick prototype breadboard
first.

The resistors for the LEDs will all be 300 ohms for 10ma or
150 ohms for 20ma with a 6v battery.
300 ohms with a 9v battery will give 15ma.


Is the power switch acceptable then?

Here's the updated drawing...
 

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