Please!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

hey,, i created the schematic a one circuit,.... i tried design board that schematic... but its not good... i uploaded schematic.. anyone can help take create the pcb????View attachment telephone.sch

Please don't double post.

crutschow said:

Please don't double post.

Click to expand...

Actually it's Please!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! don't double post.

Hi chamil,

I don't understand what you need the high number of of wire jumps for.

The board can be routed purely single sided without any wire jump!

Here's a raw design.

You might refine it and get it smaller. There are still lots of options to improve it.

Boncuk

Boncuk,

Nice board design, but one thing that i dont understand is why do you design a board with such fine tracks and pads.

It is really a nightmare if it is intended to be a home etched board.

I once designed this way too and found it a pain in the arse to work with, then one day realized why remove all that copper.
I now leave as much copper on the board as i can with as fat tracks and pads as possiable and would much rather a wire jumper than a track between pads.

By leaving more copper on the board your etchant lasts 10x longer and the boards etch much faster and exposure or etching problems are almost non exsistant.

It is one of the problems i found with eagle was it has trouble routing the tracks with large chunky size.

Just some food for thought.

Pete.

everyone thanx for the reply!!!!

Boncuk said:

Hi chamil,

I don't understand what you need the high number of of wire jumps for.

The board can be routed purely single sided without any wire jump!

Here's a raw design.

You might refine it and get it smaller. There are still lots of options to improve it.

Boncuk

Click to expand...

thanx boncuk,,its nice works friend ,.. i like to learn it.. but i want good teacher ... can u send video that how did create it..i think by that i can learn it.. these jumpers go to the 8 relays its not attached to the board.... i expect its connect by wire..... thanks your help...

SABorn said:

Boncuk,

Nice board design, but one thing that i dont understand is why do you design a board with such fine tracks and pads.

It is really a nightmare if it is intended to be a home etched board.

I once designed this way too and found it a pain in the arse to work with, then one day realized why remove all that copper.
I now leave as much copper on the board as i can with as fat tracks and pads as possiable and would much rather a wire jumper than a track between pads.

By leaving more copper on the board your etchant lasts 10x longer and the boards etch much faster and exposure or etching problems are almost non exsistant.

It is one of the problems i found with eagle was it has trouble routing the tracks with large chunky size.

Just some food for thought.

Pete.

Click to expand...

Hi Pete,

you must have overlooked this statement: "Here's a raw design".

So it's up to the OP to make bigger traces and use a ground fill as well.

The traces I used are 0.4064mm wide for signals and 0.6096 for power traces.

According to my (more than 50 years) experience these traces are strong enough for the low current involved in the circuit.

Making a board durable you might use several coats of clear plastic laquer as offered by "Kontakt Chemie".

My boards (signal trace width 0.3032mm) made that way did not malfunction during a time period of 18 years when they were replaced by a modern building management system.

Regards

Boncuk

Hi chamil,

"producing" a video about routing a PCB takes about 10 to 20 times more time than producing a board design.

Moreover I don't possess a video camera and the one integrated in my cell phone has very limited recording space.

Routing a PCB design requires both, experience and and intuition. Place the components and perform "ratsnest" periodically (every time a component has been moved) to see if the air wires are still crossing.

When you have reached a point with almost no air wires crossing you start routing the obvious (straight point to point) traces first and then reposition the components causing trouble.

That's the best advise I can give you.

Regards

Boncuk

P.S. You might post a schematic with the relays contained in it. Even if they will be placed on a separate board you might use a box header or a wafer to connect them properly.

hey thanx friend... what do u mean this " I'm not a complete idiot. Some parts are still missing. "

Boncuk,

My point was not to criticize your work, or the ability of the copper to handle the current and the life of the board, but more to why remove so much copper when its not needed to be etched away.

From my experience with making kit boards fine tracks and pads are a problem with the lesser skilled people in assembly, as they tend to overheat things and peel the pads off, also on rework the likely hood of damaging the board is far greater with fine artwork.
(we are often working with total beginners here )

The other issue i raised was for the home maker of circuit boards (not manufacturing) will have trouble with fine tracks and pads, regardless of what method they employ in the board artwork.

I do understand it was just a throw together circuit to help the OP to get things into prospective.

And now he wants a video of how to do this....?? some people think the rest of us have nothing better to do than spend hours working free for their benefit......Get Real!!

Pete.

Hi Pete,

I started out making PCBs using that cheapy pressed paper stuff, asphalt laquer and a fine brush to make the traces etch resistant.

Later I refined the methods making precise and professional PCB using photosensitive FR-4 material which holds even small pads of 1.3mm diameter and a drill size of 0.6mm when applying too much heat while soldering parts into place.

I also used an electrochemical plating machine for double sided boards, but the chemical stuff turned out to be much too expensive if not constantly used. (After two days of rest 10l of that stuff were due taking them to a hazardous goods disposal.)

We all had to pay learning how to make circuits boards work properly and look beautiful as well.

I do not recommend electronics to anyone who uses a plumber's iron to solder small parts.

Boncuk

chamilackjm said:

hey thanx friend... what do u mean this " I'm not a complete idiot. Some parts are still missing. "

Click to expand...

An incomplete car might not have an engine, wheels or a steering wheel. So some parts are missing.