OK, so we've been having a few discussions here lately about powering LEDs directly from the power line (sans transformer or proper power supply). At one point I proposed a way to do this, and was immediately shot down by people saying "That won't work!". I must say, whenever I hear that, it just makes me want to go out and try it even worse. Must be the rebel in me, I guess.
Anyhow, I just finished cobbling together the following:
**broken link removed**
It works. I witnessed it with my own two eyes. LED lights up, brightly but not too brightly. Resistor doesn't even get warm.
Notice the lack of a bridge rectifier, bleeder resistor, protection diode, etc., etc.
So tell me again why this won't work? 'Cause I'm telling you, it does ... the LED doesn't seem anywhere near being stressed.
Now, I'm not suggesting anyone copy this design for a production model. If I were going to actually use this, I think I'd throw a 1N4001 or so in series with the LED to give it a little more protection.
Oh, yeah, the capacitor had a pretty good charge on it (~60V) when I pulled the plug, but what the hey--so long as nobody's fingers come into contact with it, so what?
Minimal parts count "R" us ...
Anyhow, I just finished cobbling together the following:
**broken link removed**
It works. I witnessed it with my own two eyes. LED lights up, brightly but not too brightly. Resistor doesn't even get warm.
Notice the lack of a bridge rectifier, bleeder resistor, protection diode, etc., etc.
So tell me again why this won't work? 'Cause I'm telling you, it does ... the LED doesn't seem anywhere near being stressed.
Now, I'm not suggesting anyone copy this design for a production model. If I were going to actually use this, I think I'd throw a 1N4001 or so in series with the LED to give it a little more protection.
Oh, yeah, the capacitor had a pretty good charge on it (~60V) when I pulled the plug, but what the hey--so long as nobody's fingers come into contact with it, so what?
Minimal parts count "R" us ...