problem with inchworm

[Ambient]

I have one of the inchworm kits that I got from dipmicro. They gave me all 1% resistors, which is not a problem I imagine. The problem is they gave me completely different caps.

What I got:
a) (5) 2.2uF 50V electrolytic
b) (1) 22uF 63V electrolytic
c) (1) 47uF 10V electrolytic (supposed to be 25V)
d) (4) 0.1uF ceramic
e) (2) 33pF ceramic (they just have "33" on them so I assume they are 33pF and not the 33uF I need)

Possible matches from instructions(same order):
a) C6, 7, 8, 11, 12 10uF 25V?
b) C2, 9 47uF 25V?
c) C2, 9 47uF 25V?
d) C3, 4, 5 .1uF 25V, extra one for C1 .33uF 25V?
e) C10, 13 33pF (matches)

According to the assembly instructions revised on 1/27/2007, every one of these caps (except the 33pF) is incorrect. I know from experience that some values are not critical, so I figure some values used for the assembly instructions are overkill. Can they still be used in the way I guessed? If I need to I can order the correct values. Thanks for the help.

 

[gregmcc]

This post should help you out:

https://www.electro-tech-online.com/threads/inchworm-components.26878/

 

[blueroomelectronics]

I have one of the inchworm kits that I got from dipmicro. They gave me all 1% resistors, which is not a problem I imagine. The problem is they gave me completely different caps.

What I got:
a) (5) 2.2uF 50V electrolytic
b) (1) 22uF 63V electrolytic
c) (1) 47uF 10V electrolytic (supposed to be 25V)
d) (4) 0.1uF ceramic
e) (2) 33pF ceramic (they just have "33" on them so I assume they are 33pF and not the 33uF I need)

Possible matches from instructions(same order):
a) C6, 7, 8, 11, 12 10uF 25V?
b) C2, 9 47uF 25V?
c) C2, 9 47uF 25V?
d) C3, 4, 5 .1uF 25V, extra one for C1 .33uF 25V?
e) C10, 13 33pF (matches)

According to the assembly instructions revised on 1/27/2007, every one of these caps (except the 33pF) is incorrect. I know from experience that some values are not critical, so I figure some values used for the assembly instructions are overkill. Can they still be used in the way I guessed? If I need to I can order the correct values. Thanks for the help.

1% are fine, just a funny color and an extra stripe. A multimeter will be very handy.

Of all the parts to get right, change the 33pf to 15pf - 20pf. dipmicro will send you a free set if you don't have them on hand. Some crystals hate the 33pf (my mistake) but 15pf are mentioned in PIC datasheets when using 20MHz.

the 2.2uf are fine, and the 0.1 are fine for C1 (the .33uf is in the LM7805 datasheet and is not critical when using a wall wart.) The 47uf (C2) is also going to work just fine near the power supply and the 22uf (C9) will go near the MAX232 (it needs to be at least 16V rated).

 

[Ambient]

Thanks, you guys are the best!

 

[dipmicro]

The supplemental parts have been discussed to death. The partslist for dipmicro version of Inchworm is available here:

**broken link removed**

Bill, you could have already make a note of this in the assembly manual. If you license Inchworm also to other people, there will be more versions floating around. Even for other kits I may not always stick to the exact BOM so if you could make a note in a bold font, something like the following:

The kit manufacturer and distributor may provide alternative part numbers. Please check their website in addition to this assembly manual.

 

[Ambient]

Thanks guys, I just assumed that all shops carried the same version.

dipmicro, those new LED's are awesome!

 

[dipmicro]

dipmicro, those new LED's are awesome!

What new LEDs? Did you happen to get the free sample LEDs that I put into the orders sometimes? Or you are referring to Inchworm LEDs?

Btw. from now on the partslist is printed on the back of the kit. Should have done it sooner.

 

[Ambient]

The rectangular green and red power and busy LED's with the rounded ends. They really make the kit look interesting. I have never seen LED's like these. Nice enough that I would never put them in a housing. I noticed you are selling them individually as well.