Question about Paint removing with Electrolysis

[ElectroNewby]

Hello there.

Electrolysis is used to remove rust. That I know and used the technique before, but I read that it could be used to remove paint as well.

My question is: can it remove electro-plated colors from an ally ?

My glasses are almost 10 years old and I can't afford to buy another pair. The paint seems to be electro-plated and, at some places, the paint is gone. It seems to be chrome that was electro-plated.

I think my glasses would be pretty nice (a bit nicer) if they were all chrome and I'm thinking about electrolysis to remove it all.

My question is then, is electrolysis used only with normal paints, or electro-plated paint as well ?

The principle of electro-plating implies electrolysis + chemicals and other things...

Anyway, I'm sure some people here are familiar with those techniques. I'd gladly read your thoughts on the subject.

Good day!

 

[mramos1]

The non-electronic answer: Never heard of using electrolysis for paint removing. Something called "aircraft remover" from a local department or auto store will probably do the job, so long as it is not powder coated. Make sure the lenses are glass and do not get it on your skin either.

You might want to fill in your location in your profile.

 

[ElectroNewby]

The glasses will be unmounted when doing that. Have you heard about rust removing ? And aircraft remover sounds chemicals to me. I don't want to have to use a sandpaper neither. If it's correct, I just have to plug the glasses on the cathode of my electrolic circuit, like for rust, pass a power through it and come back a few hours later to find the paint floating in the electrolite solution.

Will do my profil.

 

[Reloadron]

Several years ago we had a company come in and electro paint some old office stuff. File cabinets, shelves and such. All conductive metallic items. They connect an anode lead to the item to be painted and the cathode to the paint gun. The paint under pressure was atomized leaving the nozzle and charged. It was drawn to the negative cathode charged surface and stuck uniform and evenly. Pretty slick.

However, I doubt the same would work in reverse. I don't see a reason for non conductive paint (or plating) to migrate from the surface it is on. Something that may work might be an ultra sonic cleaning small tank. Anyway, best of luck with the endeavor.

Ron

 

[ElectroNewby]

Yeah I'm not sure either. I google but can't find info on removing plated. They all talk about real paint removing.

I might try to make a chemical solution as it is probably the best solution if I need to avoid sandpaper.

Thanks for your replies.

 

[Sceadwian]

mramos, that would fall under the catagory of reverse current cleaning. If you use a heated caustic based cleaner it will pull paint off metal like you wouldn't believe with a reverse current. For a small job like this though commercial paint stripper would probably be far better. It's also not likley a paint, it's likely an anodized coating. If it's anodized, the paint stripper won't do a damn thing. Not sure what will remove anodizing, aside from perhaps strong acids.

I'm a little confused about why you can't afford to buy new glasses but you can afford all these chemicals and plating gear for paint removal? Use zennioptical.com and buy the cheapest new pair you can afford, especially considering after 10 years you can't possible have the same prescription, so you already need an eye test to start with. Aside from that, why be so precise and fussy about this? If you carefully cleaned primed and sanded the existing frames you could paint right over it, shield as much of the lense as you can and use a razorblade after the paint has set (but before it cures completely) to clean up.

 

[ElectroNewby]

I thought I could do it for 0 $, just a bol of water, 2 electrodes and some soda powder. because I need to pay for contact lenses, and I can change my windows for about 200$ if I keep the same frame. It's still cheaper than buying new glasses if I keep the old frame, if it is on metal, it's gonna look more cool and less old. I'd take off the windows before doing anything. I could simply use a sandpaper, since the colored part of my glasses seems to be very think. So you say the reverse current would not be able to pull off what's anodized ?

The thing is, if I do use a sandpaper, the glasses won't look very polished after. Or maybe they will if I use a sandpaper-600 and steel wool; I do it to clean the metal bars on guitar necks (frets) and they always come out clean and polished like new.

 

[Sceadwian]

I'm sorry ElectroNewby, but the only thing I can supply is the phrase 'you can't get there from here'
The only thing I can suggest is a very gentle ceramic bead blasting. It will remove everyhing up to and including the primary surface, but not enough to affect dimensions to not fit anymore. I like the textured look myself but not quiet the brushed look of steel wool or another abrasive.

 

[mramos1]

ElectroNewby, can you post a close up picture of the frame? Then we have a better shot at what is on the metal and type metal. Anodized aluminum is another story for sure.

 

[BrownOut]

Several years ago we had a company come in and electro paint some old office stuff. File cabinets, shelves and such. All conductive metallic items. They connect an anode lead to the item to be painted and the cathode to the paint gun. The paint under pressure was atomized leaving the nozzle and charged. It was drawn to the negative cathode charged surface and stuck uniform and evenly. Pretty slick.

Ron

I think that was power coating.

 

[Sceadwian]

It's called electro coating, it's a general term nothing specific, it's used for paints, (both liquid and powder) and actually quiet a wide variety of other types of coatings. The only reason for the electrification is to cause more product to be attracted to the target rather than dispersed into the air, it also causes the coating to be very uniform because the coating itself electrically isolates the substrate so the charged paint is attracted to non-exposed portions. For things like powder the static charges applied actually keep the particles in place until the items goes through an oven for final curing (where the powder becomes liquid and flows)

It could have been a form of plasma deposition coating, but for office equipment I'm not sure they'd go to such a degree =) If you want to see some crazy stuff try to find some video of a plasma coating deposit gun in action, the coolest way to paint EVER, and it's cutting edge technology because of the incredible array of materials that can be applied.

 

[Reloadron]

It's called electro coating, it's a general term nothing specific, it's used for paints, (both liquid and powder) and actually quiet a wide variety of other types of coatings. The only reason for the electrification is to cause more product to be attracted to the target rather than dispersed into the air, it also causes the coating to be very uniform because the coating itself electrically isolates the substrate so the charged paint is attracted to non-exposed portions. For things like powder the static charges applied actually keep the particles in place until the items goes through an oven for final curing (where the powder becomes liquid and flows)

It could have been a form of plasma deposition coating, but for office equipment I'm not sure they'd go to such a degree =) If you want to see some crazy stuff try to find some video of a plasma coating deposit gun in action, the coolest way to paint EVER, and it's cutting edge technology because of the incredible array of materials that can be applied.

You nailed it. The paint was liquid form and I didn't spend much time watching these guys but as to uniformity it was perfect and no over spray floating around. These guys made old file cabinets and shelves look really nice.

Ron

 

[Sceadwian]

And if they prepped them properly they'll last like they were brand new out of the box.