When you have the soldering iron set just right for 63/37 solder, it solders perfectly and cleanly. If you then use 60/40 you have to increase the temp considerably and it's terrible to solder with. I threw it out!!!!
Well I have only ever used 60/40, I havnt seen a reel of 63/37 and have no experience of it. But I havnt had any problems with 60/40, unlike the lead free stuff! I cant solder a decent joint with that no matter what! What is the solder in solder paste (normally), mine is in Chinese so probably says not to be used for electronics . Mine tends to dry out long before I use it up, so I tend to use normal solder for smd when I can.
Well I have only ever used 60/40, I havnt seen a reel of 63/37 and have no experience of it. But I havnt had any problems with 60/40, unlike the lead free stuff! I cant solder a decent joint with that no matter what! What is the solder in solder paste (normally), mine is in Chinese so probably says not to be used for electronics . Mine tends to dry out long before I use it up, so I tend to use normal solder for smd when I can.
I assume you mean the paste? I keep it in ambient air. Tint little pot costs a fortune!!! I also have some proper liquid rosin, the really sticky slightly amber stuff. I would throw it but gain they charged a kidney for it.
From a quick survey of suppliers here (RS [that's Radio Spares, not Radio Shack], Farnell, CPC, Rapid) it seems that 60/40 is significantly more popular, although 63/37 is readily avalable.
I was wondering if there was some cultural difference between the UK and North America regarding one type being more popular? I've never used 63/37 (at least, not that I know of) and I don't think I know anyone who does. I'm interested in giving it a try now though...
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What are our members in other parts of the world using, and what's available?
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LG, I believe that the advice is normally that solder paste should be kept refrigerated to extend its shelf life - that flux tends to oxidise the granuals of metal. However you're supposed to let it warm up to room temperature before using it - which is, of course, a pain in the backside.
I assume you mean the paste? I keep it in ambient air. Tint little pot costs a fortune!!! I also have some proper liquid rosin, the really sticky slightly amber stuff. I would throw it but gain they charged a kidney for it.
Yes as Tom mentioned it should be kept in the refrigerator for best life. If you wrap it up good and stick it in there where it wont get bothered it will last longer. Also as Tom said before use it is left out to get up to room temperature again.
I have also experimented with freezing it. I kept a small sample at around 32 degrees F for a couple weeks, then took it out and after it came up to room temperature i used it and it worked fine. I cant recommend this yet though because it was only 'frozen' for about 2 weeks and also it was not very low temperature it was only about 30 to 32 degrees F.
What else i noticed was it would be nice if it was available in smaller sample quantities were we would leave say 100 samples in the fridge, then take out one when needed and leave the rest in there. That way we would not have to thermal cycle it every time we wanted to use it, and not have to wait for the whole quantity to change temperature before use.
I gave lead free a go. Soldered alright but I didn't really like using it so didn't get any more. Gone back to good old 60/40 now. Never tried anything else. Nigel's comment about flux makes sense, I used some old Multicore solder (the sort that used to come in an aluminium canister) a couple of weeks ago - ahhhhh just love that smell! Soldered better too. I often find modern solder is helped by extra flux. Dread to think what I'm breathing in from it, but I go on the principle it's not much and not often...
I got to Radio Shack tooo late. The local store is now listed as closing. Went in to purchase some solder and no solder, no perfboads . They are selling EVERYTHING including file cabinets, parts bins etc.
Looked at solder at Mouser and never realized the different types and formulations
SN AG, CU then add in PB3
?????????
ordered similar to Sn96, Ag3, Cu05
I recommend 60/40 or 63/37 with a rosin flux core.
There's no reason to suffer with leadfree solder for what you are doing. If you are worried about lead poisoning:
o Virtually zero lead is vaporized during soldering
o Even if the above were not true, evidence suggests the damage was done long ago
Hmm, I'm just going to mention this, Radio Shack has filed for bankruptcy... again. And this time as I think the last bankruptcy did not even mention this to their employees until closing notices were sent to "some" stores. The one worker that reconfigured the radio shack sine to say Adios was inventive. And has spread.
Same here. Being I work with large gauge wire and cabling fairly regularly that needs soldering I tend to buy my 60/40 in flux core .063" and 1/8" diameters on 1# spools 3 - 5 at a time.
ALL Radio Shack stores will be closed as of May 31, with the exception of some franchise and independent stores. Since those stores will no source of products, they probably won't last long.
Just curious what solder is everyone using??
The solder I am using doesn't have that bright shinny appearance when solder cools but I read somewhere that is due in part to lack of lead in the solder.
The Duratool stuff is 60/40 from my local shop; the stuff in the box came from a Sunday Market I visit now and again. There is a guy there who sells electronics gear .. .. nothing run of the mill or weird or unusual; he also has goody bags and goody boxes ... I bought a Sainsburys carrier bag labelled solder wire for £8 .. inside there were about 60 bundles such as you can see in the box ... I imagine they are very old because the flux coating left after use is dark brown and very glossy .. smells a bit too .. but it don't 'arf solder well !!